2012 JKUR (still unnamed) RIPP Supercahrger High Altitude Full Kit Install

[Deola]

It's here, almost totally unscathed. RIP(gigiddy) 2 spare bottles of vortech oil. The good side is they were replaced within 5 days. I will be doing and documenting the full install of the supercharger onto my JKUR. 2012 Rubicon, manual transmission, 2.5 lift, 35x12.50x17 nitto extreme terrains, stock 4.10 gearing(for now), magnaflow cat back exhaust, Totl innovations heat reduction hood.... That wraps up the mods that will come into play in the end's performance testing. Everything else just plays into the weight game. Since I get paid to break stuff for a living, it should be obvious that I'm a pretty mild to moderate mechanic. I'm also a perfectionist, so I have a good friend/head jeep mechanic @ the local dealership/ avid off-roader supervising me during this install. I have read the instruction booklet umpteen times, we are shooting for an install this Saturday.

[Snarf77]

It's here, almost totally unscathed. RIP(gigiddy) 2 spare bottles of vortech oil. The good side is they were replaced within 5 days....


Very cool. Look forward to the install thread. I'm confused - what was broken and replaced? Vortech oil?

[Pznivy]

I cannot wait to see something on the high alt set up. JL, don't you have one of these also?

Is it installed?

[Yoinkers]

Name this thing already! We saw this Jeep in the TOTL innovations hood thread.

Black right?

how about....... Black the RIPPer? (get it like "jack the ripper", but with black because the jeep is black, and its got a RIPP supercharger on it?)

[JeepLab]

Black the RIPPer is very clever.

[Deola]

Spare oil sent was busted open by the other things in box...but they sent the replacements in a timely manor. As far as the name that would work if my jk was black, but it's actually Black Forest Green Pearlcoat.... Hard to tell though because it's normally brown, but hey that's what they are made for right?! I love my street legal 4- wheeler:)

[Deola]

Ok, just got the call from my friend and he said Saturday is a go!!! I can hardly wait. Wish me luck guys and gals

[2k13jk]

Good luck with the install mine took 6 hours start to finish i have a ripp kit also its alot of fun to drive and definately worth the money

[JeepLab]

Give your internet family some PICs!

[Deola]

Here is one to hold you guys over till tomorrow.

[Deola]

OK, install is finished. Drove it home last night and went straight to bed to prep for my 24 hour shift today. To keep you updated total install time was about 10.5 hours. 2 of those hours were in the Diablosport In-tune updates and actual tuning. Ran into a problem with one of the supplied brackets, but was able to work around it with my friends help. I will start on the full write up tomorrow when I get off work. Jeep did good on the way home, no issues presented themselves. Acceleration is much better than stock...as expected. I was able to hold 6th gear at 62 mph over all height hills on my trip home. The doors and hardtop were not on my jeep, but I doubt a couple hundred pouds will skew it very much at those speeds. Bigger brakes will definately be moved higher on my list of what to mod next. Stay tuned for a ton of pics and more details.

[UselessPickles]

Bigger brakes will definately be moved higher on my list of what to mod next.

What's the reason for this?

[Deola]

Because turns come up a lot faster now :)

[UselessPickles]

But if you are street driving, you shouldn't be needing to brake from a higher speed for corners now. For racing, it makes sense that more power needs better brakes, because you will accelerate to a higher speed between corners. On the street, you'll only be accelerating more quickly up to the same speeds that you would have accelerated up to without the supercharger (unless you treat the streets like a race track, disregarding speed limits).

The brakes only care how quickly you need to slow down from what speed. It doesn't matter how quickly you accelerated up to that speed.

[Deola]

Regardless of whether or not I speed over the mountains, I already had bigger brakes on my list for the terrain I live and wheel on, what I tow, and the extra weight my jku carries with add-ons.bigger brakes are now higher on my list than they used to be.

[Deola]

958959960A week before the unit came I ran all of my 87 octane out and refilled with 93 so that part would be good to go for install. OK, here we go. First off we had to get the stock parts outta the way. I disconnected the battery, removed the stock air box and piping back to throttle body ( when removing the air temp sensor...it was noted in instructions to note how it was facing and to be careful not to damage it), engine coolant over flow tank ( not reused- new one provided) upper shroud, Plastic cover and foam pieces over intake manifold.

[Deola]

961962963964

[Deola]

965966967968969Next up was preparing to remove intake manifold. First off I had to unplug and remove the vacuum lines behind the throttle body, unplug and remove the map sensor, and unplug the throttle body. Then I unplugged the large data plug just to the passenger side of the manifold. Then I pulled the harness from the manifold by pulling the plastic push clips. Hint** A pair of 45 degree long nose plies came in handy each and every time I had to pull the plastic clips or screws during this install. None were damaged and all were able to be reused.**

[Deola]

Note that the brackets 1 on passenger side and 2 on driver side> I removed the bolts to allow a little play in them to avoid damaging the plenum behind the throttle body<-- It wasn't noted in the instructions, but it made life much simpler.

[JeepLab]

Ryan, my question is, since you are like the first human in the US to have driven standard RIPP and HIGH ALT RIPP, can you tell the difference?

Is your truck faster than your dads?

[Deola]

Dads has the 456 gearing on 33s vs the stock 410 in mine with 35s. so that's a hard call. I do like the manual with boost far better than his boosted auto though hands down. Did you ever get that pulley measured? Im trying to set up a little head to head between the 2 of us but its been pouring rain all day today and I just got called into work for tomorrow. Maybe the later part of the week will allow that comparison.

[Deola]

972973974975OK, the next step is the removal of the 7(8mm) bolts that hold the manifold in place, and the 2(10mm) bolts on the passenger side of the manifold. Then 2 more 10 mm bolts on the bracket located on the driver side rear of the manifold. Now the manifold lifts straight up with a little guidance around remaining parts. Once off cover your intake ports with cloth or better yet painters tape, to prevent dropping something into the motor.

[Deola]

977978979980The injectors are up next. Each injector has a red latch on the plug before you can remove it. The middle one on the passenger side is a little difficult to get to but the 45 degree plies did the trick. Then use a torx-27 socket drive to remove the 4 bolts holding the fuel rail in place. The next step provided by RIPP said to leave the fuel rail in the vehicle, but it was easier for me to remove the rail. Then you just pull the injectors out slowly, make sure the lower O-rings are kept up with. They aren't reused. Instead they are replaced with the black provided O-rings on the new injectors. The new injectors are higher than the old ones so you get 4 shims to elevate everything to the right height. there are also 4 screws included that replace the stock ones. I used a tiny drop of locktite to hold the 4 shims in place while aligning everything back up to prevent any accidents. Also a touch of grease on the new injectors helps with the install. Tighten down the new hardware and the injectors are done.

[Snarf77]

Did you notice much oil on the grey rubber seals?! Keep those away from solvents or they can deform and become useless.

[Deola]

Which ones are you referring to?

[UselessPickles]

The 6 rubber seals on the intake manifold:


980

[Deola]

Not trying to be a smartass just wondering if you are talking about the seals in the ports or on the fuel injectors.

[Deola]

Oh ok, yeah they were in really good shape. Only 10,500 miles on the Jeep now, so things were all in pretty good shape still all around

[Pznivy]

Dude! is that unnamed jeep a bullet now?

"rid thru the desert in a jeep with no name, it felt good to be out of the rain"

Name that tune?

[Snarf77]

Dude! is that unnamed jeep a bullet now?

"rid thru the desert in a jeep with no name, it felt good to be out of the rain"

Name that tune?

'Merica! Horse With No Name. Whats my prize? Am I the 15th caller!?

[Deola]

Dude! is that unnamed jeep a bullet now?

"rid thru the desert in a jeep with no name, it felt good to be out of the rain"

Name that tune?

It is, feels stock till 2800 rpm, then it goes hard through the rest of the power band.

[Deola]

986987988989Ok, next up we have the spark plugs. RIPP recommends NGK in their manual (either copper or iridium, but not platinum). NAPA is the only store that regularly stocks them in my area. I was given the wrong size thread @ NAPA, and I didn't realize this till I pulled the stock ones outta my JK. Soooo I ended up gapping the stocks to .032 inches. Which turns out to be fine. I didn't know it but they come with Champion Iridium plugs from the factory. So first you unplug all 6 coils from the valve cover and carefully remove them. I found a slight upward pressure while carefully turning a 1/4 back and fourth was the easiest. I used a plug puller magnet to fetch the plugs out after loosening them up with a socket and extension. Then its as easy as gapping them down (they seemed to be about .035 stock). Then you just reinstall reversing the steps. The only plug that was difficult to access was the center plug on the passenger side.

[Deola]

990991992993994Next up you have to cut the intake manifold on the passenger side to allow room for the now shimmed higher fuel rail. I let Robert do this step while I was changing the plugs out since he was familiar with his air tools. Its not a lot that needs to come off, we just trimmed a little then set it in place and kept taking small amounts each time until it fit.

[Deola]

To finish up your work in this part you just plug everything back up replace all the hardware (don't forget the brackets that you backed off earlier). Then you just plug the Ripp MAP sensor in where the stock one sat previously.

[Rexx19]

Super Jealous. you should send some pics to ripp with that hood you have. You'll probably make their Facebook page.

[Deola]

I gotta get a pic of my Dad's and mine together since we have the same hoods and each have a RIPP now.

[Yoinkers]

yes, you owe us a photo shoot too. These engine pics are good, but I want to see the whole jeep!

Maybe a father son photo shoot.

[Deola]

996996[ATTACH=CONFIG]996[/ATTACH here is the exterior of mine

[Yoinkers]

your truck looks like BB, but better because you have the half doors!

[Deola]

It's actually just full doors and no top. Sorry to make you guys wait so long for this write up but I've worked 77 hours of overtime these past 9 days... On the plus side there will be 4.88s in my jk soon

[Deola]

10111012Next just undo the electric cooling fan by undoing 2 (8mm) bolts and unplug the harness at the top passenger side of the fan. Then just lift it straight up and out.

[Deola]

Next up you have to remove the power steering pump by taking the tension off the belt using the factory tensioner. You reuse your stock belt according to RIPP unless you have more than 40,000 miles on it. Next you remove the factory belt tensioning system by taking 2 (13mm) bolts. This exposes a cover plate that you also remove via 1 (16mm) bolt. Oh and some access would have been a lot more difficult if I didn't have flat flares and a stubby bumper, a lot of this was easier going in from the passenger side front fender. 101510161017

[Rexx19]

cool install. Is your truck a bullet now?

[Deola]

There is a good bit of difference from stock once you hit 3k RPMs

[Rexx19]

There is a good bit of difference from stock once you hit 3k RPMs

Ahhhhhhhhhh!

[Deola]

106810691070Now you install the supplied steering pump spacer/ relocation bracket. You mount the spacer directly to the engine block where the power steering pump was relocated with the supplied (5/16) Allen head bolts. They should sit flush into the supplied bracket. RIPP advises to torque them to 18 lbs. The larger of the two brackets went in fine, but the smaller ones threads pulled out almost instantly when I began to install it. We had to spend some time re-threading it, once that was done and we seated the threads better the install could continue.

[Deola]

As you can see its pretty tight quarters. Next you just reinstall the power steering pump into your new brackets. To do this slip the lower pump mount onto stud of lower spacer and thread the nut on lightly to keep it in place and help align the upper holes. While holding the lower metal power steering pump hose use it as your alignment guide and thread upper mounting points, using the factory hardware you pulled earlier. Once everything is aligned you can tighten them all down.

[Deola]

Next you have to drain all the coolant from the radiator. They suggested using the Petcock on the lower passenger side of the radiator. This was nearly impossible to access so I pulled the lowest coolant hose. Messy but much easier. Make sure you catch the fluid in a clean pan, you will reuse it later.

[Deola]

10711072107310741075Next you cut that lower hose to make room for the supercharger. You cut it to the first bend...about 3-4 inches are taken off. Then you just reuse the stock clamp and put it back onto the radiator. Then you pull the heater hose directly behind the alternator from the engine block. You cut about 1.5" from the engine side of the hose.

[Deola]

Next twist the heater tube clockwise towards the alternator, leaving just enough room to reinstall heater hose and clamp. Using a (3/8) socket extension, insert into tube and using controlled steady force, pull upwards until it is in the proper position ( about 1/4" away from the alternator). This makes room for the supercharger bracket installed later. Reinstall heater hose clamp and tighten it up.

[Deola]

Next you install the supplied belt tensioner to the engine block using the supplied (10mm) bolt. Be sure to align the alignment pin on back side of tensioner to slot. If installed right the tensioner will be sitting at 1 o'clock when in neutral.

[Deola]

10761077Next, remove the upper radiator supports to move the radiator forward making more room for the supercharger. To do this, remove the power steering reservoir and let it hang to expose mounting point. Loosen bolt holding the bushing (2), slip them out of the radiator and then mount the radiator directly to the upper radiator frame, and insert the bushings behind the radiator tabs. then reinstall hardware and power steering reservoir.

[Deola]

The above last pic is for the next step...sorry

[Deola]

Remove the (3) bolts holding the left side of the alternator in place ( two of the bolts are about long enough to hold the JK taillights in place)

[Deola]

Next you bend the lower heater hose up as well. You will need to bring it almost 3"s upwards, again you're making room for the Vortech unit.

[Deola]

You need to pull the shipping plug out of the top of the supercharger next and replace it with the vented brass plug. this is located on top of the unit to the right of the name plate. The dipstick should be at 11 o'clock and this plug is around the 2 o'clock location.

[Deola]

107810791080Next you put the blower in. Start by threading the pulleys towards the engine; thread the serpentine belt upwards between the power steering and factory idler. Then slip the belt over the supercharger pulley holding the blower slightly off center clockwise. Align the serpentine belt onto the power steering pump also, leave slack on the drivers side for later in the install. Forgive me for just 3 pics here, it took all hands on deck to maneuver things into the right position.

[Deola]

Once the belt is on the pulley and idler, turn it counter clockwise and thread the first bolt of the supercharger bracket which should align itself with the top most alternator mounting point in the previously removed bolts. The longest bolt should be the easiest to thread and will hold everything in place. The second bolt which holds the blower assemble in place will be the lowest alternator bolt previously removed. Rotate the assembly until its aligned. only thread these bolts loosely until all are in. The third and fourth bolts are 1) remaining on the alternator, thread lightly and 2) the one aligned with the previously installed power steering spacer/relocation bracket. Thread the belt onto all pulleys. Start with the crank pulley working to the water pump pulley as the last. Apply pressure to tensioner and thread belt onto all accessories.

[Deola]

Reposition power steering hose located on power steering box. Just loosen the (18mm) flair nut holding the aluminum hose. It will be repositioned to make room for the intercooler later.

[Deola]

If you have an automatic transmission here is where you remove the transmission cooler. This is where you are advised to remove the grill, if I did it over I would've have removed the grill from the get go....rookie mistake.

[Deola]

Here are Ripps pictures for the electric fan trimming the arrows they use are better than my pics.

[Deola]

1122112311241125

[Deola]

Trim the fan shroud (chassis) and route the power to avoid the intake coming soon. You are basically cutting the one leg approximately in half depth from its stock form. Ripp says this does not affect structural integrity. I had to trim a small amount more after the install was complete, which was a pain, so be generous. Reinstall the fan with the two (8mm) bolts

[Deola]

Time for the intercooler :)

[Deola]

Grill off, locate the soft plastic flaps located on either side of the radiator. Using a clip tool or flathead screwdriver pry the push tabs loose. Use a utility knife to trim the plastic...trim means remove as much as possible it seems. Use an air saw to cut the hard plastic behind the now removed soft plastic. This makes room for the intercooler piping to pass through. Mount the intercooler centered as much as possible. Use the supplied "L" brackets and hardware, simply rest the intercooler on the lower radiator support and bolt into place. A properly installed intercooler shouldn't touch the condenser. NOTE- the top intercooler mounts are tricky to thread the bolt onto, I used a long narror flathead to apply enough pressure to tighten them But it was a two person job.

[Deola]

11261127

Here is the intercooler being mounted.

[Deola]

11281129Ok, next up is the piping puzzle. Pictures from myself and even Ripp aren't great at showing the install, but they included a diagram which is much easier to follow. don't tighten anything with more pressure than needed to hold it in place until all pieces are together. Assemble the pipe loosely clamped. Thread piping through previously cut holes on each side of intercooler. Note- make sure the intercooler is not interfering with the condenser or radiator. It will wear a hole and render your condenser useless aka no A/C. Dad found this out the hard way as the authorized installer missed this note and ruined his condenser. They eventually agreed to replace it, but didn't make it easy to deal with them.

[Deola]

11301131113211331134Remove the factory O-ring from Temp sensor and install sensor directly into grommet in boost pipe. Make sure temp sensor faces air stream for proper metering...support should face throttle body. Note- On drivers side of vehicle boost piping could interfere with A/C pressure lines. If so, lightly bend the A/C lines upwards to create more room and position the boost piping so it doesn't interfere.

[Deola]

1135And another angle.

[Deola]

Here is their diagram.

[Deola]

Install the air inlet hat by slipping the hat in the open leg of the fan. Once in, slide onto compressor and rotate clockwise (upwards) while pushing inwards to seat, tighten the clamp. This was not fun. You can use lube to help. Locate cast aluminum air filter plenum with pre installed clamp. Squeeze plenum in-between radiator and supercharger until centered with air inlet. Wiggle and/or turn it into place (This is TIGHT), be sure to leave clamp accessible for future service.

[Deola]

The space where your stock air box was will now be utilized for the new coolant overflow tank. Use the template they supply to mark and drill 3 holes through the plastic. Place tank mount in, aligned with holes, drop hardware in mounting holes, use supplied clamp, nuts, and washers and tighten. Slide tank onto bracket until it bottoms out. Route coolant overflow hose from radiator.

[Deola]

The supplied PCV valve installs in the crank case hose located behind the throttle body and slips in place. You simply cut the hose. Install the PCV valve with arrow pointing towards the intake manifold. The valve should open in vacuum and close in boost. Locate main vacuum line leading to EVAP behind throttle body, cut it as their diagram shows, use supplied tee fittings and line, route vacuum line to top of bypass valve, zip tie line to avoid interference with drive belt.

[Deola]

Now all that's left is the tuning. Plug your In-tune into your PC the day before to make sure the updates are current (mine took almost an hour to update and forced me to finish in the dark. The same tune does the standard or high- altitude kit. Change your oil, replace your coolant (slowly). If everything seems right let the JK run for 30-60 seconds, shut it down and let it sit for a minute. Recheck all fluid levels.

[Deola]

1137You now have a boosted 3.6 JK

[Deola]

I really was concerned with the usability of the Ripp kit off road, but the boost is instantaneous in 4 LOW so I can pull it over anything without bouncing aka breaking all sorts of important/expensive stuff :).

[RIPPMODS]

Great Job with the install!!! Hope you really enjoy your newly boosted JK!!!

RIPP

[Timmy]

Great Job with the install!!! Hope you really enjoy your newly boosted JK!!!

RIPP

Hey, a real RIPP person! Fantastic.

So, quick question... Do you guys support the high altitude (I call it the high elevation, but that's another story) pulley when you're not actually at high altitude? How much extra boost does it provide when you are at lower elevations?

[JeepLab]

Hey, a real RIPP person! Fantastic.

So, quick question... Do you guys support the high altitude (I call it the high elevation, but that's another story) pulley when you're not actually at high altitude? How much extra boost does it provide when you are at lower elevations?

I have high alt pulley here, and have been waiting for my jeep to not feel fast then install it. Jeep still feels fast to me.

[Timmy]

I have high alt pulley here, and have been waiting for my jeep to not feel fast then install it. Jeep still feels fast to me.

Grin... BUT, maybe you don't know what fast is REALLY like until you install it? I think my Jeep is fast, until I drive my little sports car and then remember, it's not fast ;-)

[RIPPMODS]

Hey, a real RIPP person! Fantastic.

So, quick question... Do you guys support the high altitude (I call it the high elevation, but that's another story) pulley when you're not actually at high altitude? How much extra boost does it provide when you are at lower elevations?

We sure do, we're the only company that actually sent our calibrater to Colorado to 13500 feet elevation to tune. We have had properly scaled high elevation tuning since 2009 and continue to have properly scaled tuning from sea-level to tops of peaks. If fact our tunes are properly scaled for this condition and there is a kit.

Also there a many videos of people testing this condition, below is a very old one from 2010 to settle the argument. Please keep this in mind this is tested on the standard pulley.... NOT the current Altitude pulley.

LINK TO KIT (https://ripp.squarespace.com/shop/pulley-belt-kit-for-altitude-pulley)



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VjIIf2hQipg

RIPPTECH

[JeepLab]

We sure do, we're the only company that actually sent our calibrater to Colorado to 13500 feet elevation to tune. We have had properly scaled high elevation tuning since 2009 and continue to have properly scaled tuning from sea-level to tops of peaks. If fact our tunes are properly scaled for this condition and there is a kit.

Also there a many videos of people testing this condition, below is a very old one from 2010 to settle the argument. Please keep this in mind this is tested on the standard pulley.... NOT the current Altitude pulley.

LINK TO KIT (https://ripp.squarespace.com/shop/pulley-belt-kit-for-altitude-pulley)



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VjIIf2hQipg

RIPPTECH

Our garage has been ripped apart lately changing the floor substrate. As soon as we can get the jeep back in, I will install the new pulley and take some video.

[Deola]

I'll work on some videos as well

[Timmy]

We sure do, we're the only company that actually sent our calibrater to Colorado to 13500 feet elevation to tune. We have had properly scaled high elevation tuning since 2009 and continue to have properly scaled tuning from sea-level to tops of peaks. If fact our tunes are properly scaled for this condition and there is a kit.

Also there a many videos of people testing this condition, below is a very old one from 2010 to settle the argument. Please keep this in mind this is tested on the standard pulley.... NOT the current Altitude pulley.

RIPPTECH

Thanks RIPP, but I think you did not understand my question. I'm not doubting that you tuned your high elevation pulley for high elevation. What I'm asking is, do you support those users that are down at sea level and have NO INTENT of ever driving at high elevation (ie < mile high) and are doing this solely for the purpose of getting more boost at lower elevations?

[RIPPMODS]

Thanks RIPP, but I think you did not understand my question. I'm not doubting that you tuned your high elevation pulley for high elevation. What I'm asking is, do you support those users that are down at sea level and have NO INTENT of ever driving at high elevation (ie < mile high) and are doing this solely for the purpose of getting more boost at lower elevations?

Yes, you can have the ALT pulley on at sea level with our canned tuned, we are tuned from sea level to high elevation. This means a client can go up and down the mountain without issue. Our tuning follows the barometer reading and adjusts fuel/timing accordingly. Yes at sea level it will make 11psi peak and thus more power, as you transition from sea level to elevation, it will nominally make less PSI.

RIPPTECH

[FLIPmeOVER]

So what should you expect driving from phoenix to the grand canyon? 0 ft to like 9000 ft.

a rocket at the beginning, a pig at the end?

[Timmy]

Yes, you can have the ALT pulley on at sea level with our canned tuned, we are tuned from sea level to high elevation. This means a client can go up and down the mountain without issue. Our tuning follows the barometer reading and adjusts fuel/timing accordingly. Yes at sea level it will make 11psi peak and thus more power, as you transition from sea level to elevation, it will nominally make less PSI.

RIPPTECH

Me likey your answer ;-) 11 PSI, that sounds more funner than the 8 PSI I've been hearing about.

So here's a REALLY dumb question.... If you have no issue with low-life's (ie. low elevation folks) running the high elevation pulley, then why not just include the high elevation pulley as standard? Seems like it's one less SKU to keep on stock, one less special tuning you need to provide, one less part to support, and provides increased power over all the other SC's out there that are not shipping with the high elevation pulley. Am I missing something here?

[RIPPMODS]

So what should you expect driving from phoenix to the grand canyon? 0 ft to like 9000 ft.

a rocket at the beginning, a pig at the end?

You should expect a properly scaled vehicle that adapts to the conditions seamlessly and to be keeping up to the traffic at 9000ft. You should also expect to be passing stock JK's at Hwy speed leaving them wondering what you have that they don't

Put a RIPP sticker on it ;)




Me likey your answer ;-) 11 PSI, that sounds more funner than the 8 PSI I've been hearing about.

So here's a REALLY dumb question.... If you have no issue with low-life's (ie. low elevation folks) running the high elevation pulley, then why not just include the high elevation pulley as standard? Seems like it's one less SKU to keep on stock, one less special tuning you need to provide, one less part to support, and provides increased power over all the other SC's out there that are not shipping with the high elevation pulley. Am I missing something here?

First and formost, there is no special tune requiered - the RIPP canned tune provided the tool is updated is ready to deal with all options we sell for the 07-14jk's. A Diablo Tool update carries the latest firmware update and a simple rewrite to the vehicle using the RIPP canned tune updates all vehicle drive conditions.

To answer your question, Because at RIPP we believe the best foot forward is the 1000's of kits running soundly world wide..... NOT Hanging the front wheels up in the air and saying we're the more powerful.... We can be plenty more powerful that we are now, but it's not worth the down side.

As avid Jeepers, a Jeep is an offroad vehicle, 1000's people rely on them to drive 2000 miles from home to take them 100miles off road... A Jeep part is designed to do things under all conditions. Considering ourselves beyond a supercharger kit, we have demonstrated ourselves to be a Jeep part.


Well made and reputable
Easy to install
Reliable under all conditions
Easily serviceable on the field
Reversible on the field
Removable with a value when sold off used


We take quit seriously the fact that many of our clients pile their families into RIPP powered JK's for a couple of weeks worth of fun and that a more powerful broken vehicle is worthless. The fact is our integrity out weighs the 20-30 more HP we could be advertising. Let the other guys advertise that and deal with the downside. To be fair, once you lay down 320WHP/280trq on 37's, pick up 1-4mpg and don't have to worry about it, do you NEED more?

8psi standard
11psi test and RIPP approved
Any more your on your own :o


RIPPTECH

[Timmy]

do you NEED more?

Answer: Yes. MOOR POWER...

But, for now, you have mostly satisfied my curiosity.

So basically, you feel 8 PSI is 100% safe at low elevations, but you feel comfortable at 11 PSI if the intent is for high elevation driving at some point, but if someone complains your gear got them stranded on a coastal beach, and they were running a high elevation pulley, you will basically be able to tell them they were operating out of bounds. Got it.

So, JeepLab, got that new pulley on yet? Hurry my mine, you're fan base is waiting...

[JeepLab]

Answer: Yes. MOOR POWER...

But, for now, you have mostly satisfied my curiosity.

So basically, you feel 8 PSI is 100% safe at low elevations, but you feel comfortable at 11 PSI if the intent is for high elevation driving at some point, but if someone complains your gear got them stranded on a coastal beach, and they were running a high elevation pulley, you will basically be able to tell them they were operating out of bounds. Got it.

So, JeepLab, got that new pulley on yet? Hurry my mine, you're fan base is waiting...

Its on my list. behind correcting the steering, and getting the garage ready for work. Ive had to RIPP (lol) the garage apart to redo the epoxy floor. Betty is sleeping outside for the first time in her life. Once I can get her back in, its steering correction time, and the new pulley will go on. Hang in there its coming.

Deola has his installed already, he can comment on the power.

here are some shots of the floor we just put down. 1161

[boosted1]

To answer your question, Because at RIPP we believe the best foot forward is the 1000's of kits running soundly world wide..... NOT Hanging the front wheels up in the air and saying we're the more powerful.... We can be plenty more powerful that we are now, but it's not worth the down side.
RIPPTECH

Um...
Pretty sure the power levels are NOT the same considering we run the same boost levels. The difference is turbochargers make more power at the same boost level. There are pros and cons to both but who makes more power is not really a debate. The wheels hanging in the air is a testament to how powerful a Jeep can be. That Jeep is daily driven, stock engine and has never broken anything but an axle.

[Snarf77]

Um...
Pretty sure the power levels are NOT the same considering we run the same boost levels. The difference is turbochargers make more power at the same boost level. There are pros and cons to both but who makes more power is not really a debate. The wheels hanging in the air is a testament to how powerful a Jeep can be. That Jeep is daily driven, stock engine and has never broken anything but an axle.

Thanks for speaking up. I'm not really feeling the good vibes from RIPP taking unnecessary jabs at competition, especially when unprovoked in a user's install thread. I have a firm belief that anyone who has to boost themselves up to feel better by stepping on others, is kinda lame.

Let's not turn this altitude install thread into a debate thread. I doubt the RIPP gent has actually driven a turbo'd jeep. I've driven both..the turbo definitely is more powerful. To what end, that is debatable. RIPP can't knock reliability because nobody has had a failurewith the more powerful option. We truly appreciate RIPP stepping up to answer user questions, but keep it civil.

[Rexx19]

Um...
Pretty sure the power levels are NOT the same considering we run the same boost levels. The difference is turbochargers make more power at the same boost level. There are pros and cons to both but who makes more power is not really a debate. The wheels hanging in the air is a testament to how powerful a Jeep can be. That Jeep is daily driven, stock engine and has never broken anything but an axle.

I didn't feel like ripp's comment was calling out the turbo guys. They are stating that the SC could be set up to spin up more boost than it does, but they need to keep the beast tame. All tuners have the same issue. The turbo guys can make more power too, but for any manufacturer sell it to the masses, they need to make sure that it dosent have problems with the tune.

Both mods can make more power, but both companies have to tune it so that it drives the way the end user thinks it should.

[UselessPickles]

I didn't feel like ripp's comment was calling out the turbo guys.

Considering that Prodigy has promotional material showing their 3.8 12 psi turbo jeep lifting the front wheels in the air at a drag strip (and they are the only forced induction option to do this with a Jeep), and that Prodigy claims to have the most powerful forced induction option for the Jeep, I think it's quite reasonable to conclude that the following was in reference to Prodigy, and could imply that Prodigy is sacrificing reliability for power:


To answer your question, Because at RIPP we believe the best foot forward is the 1000's of kits running soundly world wide..... NOT Hanging the front wheels up in the air and saying we're the more powerful.... We can be plenty more powerful that we are now, but it's not worth the down side.

Prodigy's point above was that both Prodigy and RIPP are running similar boost levels, so the Prodigy turbo isn't necessarily stressing the engine more than RIPP to get more power. With the supercharger, there is more parasitic power loss to directly driving the supercharger itself. A turbo is inherently more efficient, so a larger portion of the internal forces/stresses produced in the engine are actually transmitted to the drivetrain. A supercharger would need to produce more boost and internal forces/stresses in the engine to match the power output of a turbo. If there was another competitor with a centrifugal supercharger using more boost than RIPP to produce more power, then it would be fair for RIPP to bring up the question of reduced long-term reliability in that competitor's product.

Let's just assume that RIPP did not intend to imply anything about the reliability of the Prodigy turbo, and instead assume that RIPP was simply saying that they are comfortable with their current balance of power and reliability within the context of their own centrifugal supercharger platform, and that they choose not to sacrifice reliability to increase power output and try to compete in peak dyno numbers with a competitor's offering that has an inherent advantage in power production efficiency.

Like Prodigy said, all the forced induction options have different pros/cons. Designed properly, they can all have similar overall reliability, but differences in peak power, throttle response, shape of the torque curve, etc. Peak power/torque is not everything, so there's nothing wrong with not being the most powerful option. None of the forced induction options are inherently overall better/worse. We all have different priorities and desires.

[Deola]

Ok back on track now with the thread. I have got about 1,000 miles on the JK with the RIPP installed. I've put some sticky notes in the back of me brain to share with you all. In no particular order. The power is great when it kicks in at 3000 RPMs, I wish it was sooner for everyday driving( especially with a lot of elevation changes)... But on the up side as soon as you touch the throttle in 4LOW. I had a bolt and copper crush washer decide to not play well together anymore ( about 50 miles on the unit) and start leaking while I was working on the farm one day. I lost just over 1/8th of the units oil in 80 miles. Of course my luck this happened while all of RIPPs staff was vacationing together and unavailable, annnnd on the weekend, so vortech was closed. When I called them on Monday the bolt and washer cost like $48+ shipping anothe $43 (overnight was $96) wasn't really excited about that, but my Jeep was OOS until I had the new part installed. I have heard a lot of people tell me that power adders would change my mind on gears. These Jeepers have a lot more experience than me mind you. That being said I disagree, the RIPP is great in the power band but so much of my driving is spent under 3000 RPMs. I can stay a gear lower on my trans while towing and crossing mountains, I guess it's just personal preference. Dads has gears and I reallly like it combined with the RIPP. This may be because if I'm under 2200 RPMs and being light on the throttle I get a good bit of throttle surging in every gear. To fix this I either stay above 2400 RPMs or go 50% throttle or greater. I'm enjoying the unit overall, just thought I should share.

[boosted1]

The power is great when it kicks in at 3000 RPMs, I wish it was sooner for everyday driving( especially with a lot of elevation changes) under 2200 RPMs and being light on the throttle I get a good bit of throttle surging in every gear. To fix this I either stay above 2400 RPMs or go 50% throttle or greater. I'm enjoying the unit overall, just thought I should share.

Interesting.. Are you going to take this to a dyno and see what it does?

[Deola]

Interesting.. Are you going to take this to a dyno and see what it does? that's was the plan I'm having trouble locating a dyno shop in my area

[Deola]

Gears went in yesterday, didn't get to play long but all lagging spots seemed greatly diminished. Got it back late last night, and had to work today I will take it out to the farm and put it through its paces

[ferrarifast]

Gears went in yesterday, didn't get to play long but all lagging spots seemed greatly diminished. Got it back late last night, and had to work today I will take it out to the farm and put it through its paces

What gear size did you go with Deola?

[Deola]

488 yukons

[Deola]

So I have had it flash the ESP light and jerk like you're turned tight to one side in 4x4 ( but I'm not in 4x4) a couple times now when turning left from a stop. Also it has been pulling hard to the right at times while driving.

[Deola]

The gear swap is all that was done and I have only driven it from the shop to fuel up and take it home. The shop is closed on weekends so I'll have to wait till tomorrow to get with them. Thoughts?

[Deola]

Front locker is engaging on its own, at dealer now

[Gunner]

Good luck Deola

[Deola]

It's always something huh

[JeepLab]

You have my cell buddy. Use it if you need to. Even if its just to have somene tell you that it will all get sorted out.

They love to break our hearts, but when the dust clears, you will like your jeep more.

All the JL guys laugh at me when I change something and feel like i finally ruined BB. And there were a few i would have undone if it wasnt permentent work or a nightmare to undo. But I give it a week, and sort it out...and then that new mod i hated, allows me to digest whats going on and I do appreciate it and love it after.

[gbaumann]

My tune wouldn't load when I first tried either. Then the replacement file was missing some of the fuel table. It took three days to sort out but Magnuson and Diablo got me going. I remember yelling and calling my Jeep a, "$70,000 paperweight holding down the driveway." Ahhh. . . good times. Hang in there you'll get it going.

[2k13jk]

ive been there to ripp gave me a bad map sensor took 3 days to get it figured out but once you drive it with the extra power you will love it

[Deola]

Locker plunger was installed on wrong side in front axle. Jeep is up and running again.