Rear Ballistic Fabrication Differential cover leaking.

[Snarf77]

So when my Rear diff cover was replaced, it received quite a bit of sealer between surfaces. Nevertheless, it sprung a leak after driving about 200 miles. I cleaned the diff and let her sit for 36 hours and found out where its coming from! Out of a bolt hole!

542

Bolt is torqued to factory spec. I won't really know what the underlying issue is until I remove the cover.

[Snarf77]

Lubelocker makes a seal ready-formed for the Dana 44. I'm thinking about trying one after the ass pain of removing the existing seal.

543

[Rexx19]

Nothing more heartbreaking than a puddle in your garage. Did you try the gasket that comes in a tube?

Is that picture the gasket you used? Whats between the cover and the axle?

[Yoinkers]

Do those diffs have a dip stick so you know how much oil you lost? Or do you just put a pot under the diff and wait for it to stop?

[JeepLab]

The good news is, if you just geared, you have to change that fluid regardless. So correcting the gasket problem isn't that bad.

When you take the cover off. Lay in on your kitchen counter and make sure its perfectly flat.

There are a lot of welds on it, and each weld adds heat and can warp the metal. If its not perfectly flat, you need to get the manufacturer on the phone.

[Yoinkers]

The good news is, if you just geared, you have to change that fluid regardless. So correcting the gasket problem isn't that bad.

When you take the cover off. Lay in on your kitchen counter and make sure its perfectly flat.

There are a lot of welds on it, and each weld adds heat and can warp the metal. If its not perfectly flat, you need to get the manufacturer on the phone.

I thought the welds were cool on the diff cover... Now on second thought, it seems that they are each a possible point of failure.

That may be why others offer cast iron.

[Snarf77]

I thought the welds were cool on the diff cover... Now on second thought, it seems that they are each a possible point of failure.

That may be why others offer cast iron.

The diff is welded, THEN machined. That shouldn't be the problem. Nevertheless I will check it for all possible issues. Most likely its just a lack of sealant above the bolt. If the diff cover is the issue, I'll definitely get Ballistic on the phone. They haven't been terribly responsive. I sent them an email on another topic, and they never replied.

[JeepLab]

The diff is welded, THEN machined. That shouldn't be the problem. Nevertheless I will check it for all possible issues. Most likely its just a lack of sealant above the bolt. If the diff cover is the issue, I'll definitely get Ballistic on the phone. They haven't been terribly responsive. I sent them an email on another topic, and they never replied.

How long ago was the email?

[Anotheruserid]

I've had pretty good success with the lubelocker gaskets. Sure they are a bit more pricey than a tube of sealant, but they are also a F of a lot easier to use. It wouldn't be a jeep part if it didn't cost twice as much as a competing product.

[JeepLab]

I've had pretty good success with the lubelocker gaskets. Sure they are a bit more pricey than a tube of sealant, but they are also a F of a lot easier to use. It wouldn't be a jeep part if it didn't cost twice as much as a competing product.

Post number 1! Welcome to JeepLab!

[Snarf77]

I've had pretty good success with the lubelocker gaskets. Sure they are a bit more pricey than a tube of sealant, but they are also a F of a lot easier to use. It wouldn't be a jeep part if it didn't cost twice as much as a competing product.

Thanks for the input on the lubelocker gasket. I'm going to order one today and try an install this weekend. Always good to hear it worked well for others before I take the plunge.

[JeepLab]

Thanks for the input on the lubelocker gasket. I'm going to order one today and try an install this weekend. Always good to hear it worked well for others before I take the plunge.

Show some pics when you make this change. And now you want to put in the synthetic oil.

[Pznivy]

So is that gasket pic the solution? Or the problem?

Whats between the dif cover and the axle now?

[Snarf77]

The picture of the gasket is my proposed solution. Its a very high quality gasket that should solve the issue once and for all. I would have definitely used it first if I had known about them. Currently between the axle and differential cover is black RTV - pretty standard.

I'm working a temporary fix until I get about 300 more miles on the new gears behind the diff cover. Then I'll pull the cover, scrape off all the RTV and go with the lubelocker.

[JeepLab]

Is the leak slow enough for you to get to 500 miles?

its one thing to get to 500, its another thing to run the diff with no fluid in it. (both bad)

[Snarf77]

Is the leak slow enough for you to get to 500 miles?

its one thing to get to 500, its another thing to run the diff with no fluid in it. (both bad)

It's just a weep now with some rtv behind the bolt head. I added fluid last night and it only took a few ounces to fill it up and that was over about 200 miles. I'll check it weekly and watch for any puddles under the jeep. Definitely don't want it running dry.

[Pznivy]

I'd keep it over filled if anything.

Id be paranoid about it being empty. Too much oil better than too little. The extra will just vomit out the breather hoses.

[Snarf77]

I tried to fix the leak from the one bolt hole it was coming from with some RTV, but the leak was such that it wouldn't seal. I've just kept a rag under it to catch the drips in the garage. I bought the lubelocker gasket and its on my workbench. I just don't want to start that project until I have time to refinish my ballistic fabrication cover, scrape the RTV and re-do it right.

[JeepLab]

I tried to fix the leak from the one bolt hole it was coming from with some RTV, but the leak was such that it wouldn't seal. I've just kept a rag under it to catch the drips in the garage. I bought the lubelocker gasket and its on my workbench. I just don't want to start that project until I have time to refinish my ballistic fabrication cover, scrape the RTV and re-do it right.

I say use a measuring cup to catch the drips instead of a rag. so you can monitor how much oil you've lost, and maybe be able to pour it back in.

Your going to spend $60 on the 75/140 your going to put back in there when you change it. This way you will know how low you've gotten, and maybe save some.