Attachment 1011Attachment 1012Next just undo the electric cooling fan by undoing 2 (8mm) bolts and unplug the harness at the top passenger side of the fan. Then just lift it straight up and out.
Attachment 1011Attachment 1012Next just undo the electric cooling fan by undoing 2 (8mm) bolts and unplug the harness at the top passenger side of the fan. Then just lift it straight up and out.
Next up you have to remove the power steering pump by taking the tension off the belt using the factory tensioner. You reuse your stock belt according to RIPP unless you have more than 40,000 miles on it. Next you remove the factory belt tensioning system by taking 2 (13mm) bolts. This exposes a cover plate that you also remove via 1 (16mm) bolt. Oh and some access would have been a lot more difficult if I didn't have flat flares and a stubby bumper, a lot of this was easier going in from the passenger side front fender. Attachment 1015Attachment 1016Attachment 1017
cool install. Is your truck a bullet now?
There is a good bit of difference from stock once you hit 3k RPMs
Attachment 1068Attachment 1069Attachment 1070Now you install the supplied steering pump spacer/ relocation bracket. You mount the spacer directly to the engine block where the power steering pump was relocated with the supplied (5/16) Allen head bolts. They should sit flush into the supplied bracket. RIPP advises to torque them to 18 lbs. The larger of the two brackets went in fine, but the smaller ones threads pulled out almost instantly when I began to install it. We had to spend some time re-threading it, once that was done and we seated the threads better the install could continue.
As you can see its pretty tight quarters. Next you just reinstall the power steering pump into your new brackets. To do this slip the lower pump mount onto stud of lower spacer and thread the nut on lightly to keep it in place and help align the upper holes. While holding the lower metal power steering pump hose use it as your alignment guide and thread upper mounting points, using the factory hardware you pulled earlier. Once everything is aligned you can tighten them all down.
Next you have to drain all the coolant from the radiator. They suggested using the Petcock on the lower passenger side of the radiator. This was nearly impossible to access so I pulled the lowest coolant hose. Messy but much easier. Make sure you catch the fluid in a clean pan, you will reuse it later.
Attachment 1071Attachment 1072Attachment 1073Attachment 1074Attachment 1075Next you cut that lower hose to make room for the supercharger. You cut it to the first bend...about 3-4 inches are taken off. Then you just reuse the stock clamp and put it back onto the radiator. Then you pull the heater hose directly behind the alternator from the engine block. You cut about 1.5" from the engine side of the hose.
Next twist the heater tube clockwise towards the alternator, leaving just enough room to reinstall heater hose and clamp. Using a (3/8) socket extension, insert into tube and using controlled steady force, pull upwards until it is in the proper position ( about 1/4" away from the alternator). This makes room for the supercharger bracket installed later. Reinstall heater hose clamp and tighten it up.
Next you install the supplied belt tensioner to the engine block using the supplied (10mm) bolt. Be sure to align the alignment pin on back side of tensioner to slot. If installed right the tensioner will be sitting at 1 o'clock when in neutral.
Attachment 1076Attachment 1077Next, remove the upper radiator supports to move the radiator forward making more room for the supercharger. To do this, remove the power steering reservoir and let it hang to expose mounting point. Loosen bolt holding the bushing (2), slip them out of the radiator and then mount the radiator directly to the upper radiator frame, and insert the bushings behind the radiator tabs. then reinstall hardware and power steering reservoir.
The above last pic is for the next step...sorry
Remove the (3) bolts holding the left side of the alternator in place ( two of the bolts are about long enough to hold the JK taillights in place)
Next you bend the lower heater hose up as well. You will need to bring it almost 3"s upwards, again you're making room for the Vortech unit.
You need to pull the shipping plug out of the top of the supercharger next and replace it with the vented brass plug. this is located on top of the unit to the right of the name plate. The dipstick should be at 11 o'clock and this plug is around the 2 o'clock location.
Attachment 1078Attachment 1079Attachment 1080Next you put the blower in. Start by threading the pulleys towards the engine; thread the serpentine belt upwards between the power steering and factory idler. Then slip the belt over the supercharger pulley holding the blower slightly off center clockwise. Align the serpentine belt onto the power steering pump also, leave slack on the drivers side for later in the install. Forgive me for just 3 pics here, it took all hands on deck to maneuver things into the right position.
Once the belt is on the pulley and idler, turn it counter clockwise and thread the first bolt of the supercharger bracket which should align itself with the top most alternator mounting point in the previously removed bolts. The longest bolt should be the easiest to thread and will hold everything in place. The second bolt which holds the blower assemble in place will be the lowest alternator bolt previously removed. Rotate the assembly until its aligned. only thread these bolts loosely until all are in. The third and fourth bolts are 1) remaining on the alternator, thread lightly and 2) the one aligned with the previously installed power steering spacer/relocation bracket. Thread the belt onto all pulleys. Start with the crank pulley working to the water pump pulley as the last. Apply pressure to tensioner and thread belt onto all accessories.
Reposition power steering hose located on power steering box. Just loosen the (18mm) flair nut holding the aluminum hose. It will be repositioned to make room for the intercooler later.
If you have an automatic transmission here is where you remove the transmission cooler. This is where you are advised to remove the grill, if I did it over I would've have removed the grill from the get go....rookie mistake.
Here are Ripps pictures for the electric fan trimming the arrows they use are better than my pics.
Trim the fan shroud (chassis) and route the power to avoid the intake coming soon. You are basically cutting the one leg approximately in half depth from its stock form. Ripp says this does not affect structural integrity. I had to trim a small amount more after the install was complete, which was a pain, so be generous. Reinstall the fan with the two (8mm) bolts
Time for the intercooler :)
Grill off, locate the soft plastic flaps located on either side of the radiator. Using a clip tool or flathead screwdriver pry the push tabs loose. Use a utility knife to trim the plastic...trim means remove as much as possible it seems. Use an air saw to cut the hard plastic behind the now removed soft plastic. This makes room for the intercooler piping to pass through. Mount the intercooler centered as much as possible. Use the supplied "L" brackets and hardware, simply rest the intercooler on the lower radiator support and bolt into place. A properly installed intercooler shouldn't touch the condenser. NOTE- the top intercooler mounts are tricky to thread the bolt onto, I used a long narror flathead to apply enough pressure to tighten them But it was a two person job.
Attachment 1126Attachment 1127
Here is the intercooler being mounted.
Attachment 1128Attachment 1129Ok, next up is the piping puzzle. Pictures from myself and even Ripp aren't great at showing the install, but they included a diagram which is much easier to follow. don't tighten anything with more pressure than needed to hold it in place until all pieces are together. Assemble the pipe loosely clamped. Thread piping through previously cut holes on each side of intercooler. Note- make sure the intercooler is not interfering with the condenser or radiator. It will wear a hole and render your condenser useless aka no A/C. Dad found this out the hard way as the authorized installer missed this note and ruined his condenser. They eventually agreed to replace it, but didn't make it easy to deal with them.
Attachment 1130Attachment 1131Attachment 1132Attachment 1133Attachment 1134Remove the factory O-ring from Temp sensor and install sensor directly into grommet in boost pipe. Make sure temp sensor faces air stream for proper metering...support should face throttle body. Note- On drivers side of vehicle boost piping could interfere with A/C pressure lines. If so, lightly bend the A/C lines upwards to create more room and position the boost piping so it doesn't interfere.
Attachment 1135And another angle.
Here is their diagram.
Install the air inlet hat by slipping the hat in the open leg of the fan. Once in, slide onto compressor and rotate clockwise (upwards) while pushing inwards to seat, tighten the clamp. This was not fun. You can use lube to help. Locate cast aluminum air filter plenum with pre installed clamp. Squeeze plenum in-between radiator and supercharger until centered with air inlet. Wiggle and/or turn it into place (This is TIGHT), be sure to leave clamp accessible for future service.
The space where your stock air box was will now be utilized for the new coolant overflow tank. Use the template they supply to mark and drill 3 holes through the plastic. Place tank mount in, aligned with holes, drop hardware in mounting holes, use supplied clamp, nuts, and washers and tighten. Slide tank onto bracket until it bottoms out. Route coolant overflow hose from radiator.
The supplied PCV valve installs in the crank case hose located behind the throttle body and slips in place. You simply cut the hose. Install the PCV valve with arrow pointing towards the intake manifold. The valve should open in vacuum and close in boost. Locate main vacuum line leading to EVAP behind throttle body, cut it as their diagram shows, use supplied tee fittings and line, route vacuum line to top of bypass valve, zip tie line to avoid interference with drive belt.
Now all that's left is the tuning. Plug your In-tune into your PC the day before to make sure the updates are current (mine took almost an hour to update and forced me to finish in the dark. The same tune does the standard or high- altitude kit. Change your oil, replace your coolant (slowly). If everything seems right let the JK run for 30-60 seconds, shut it down and let it sit for a minute. Recheck all fluid levels.
Attachment 1137You now have a boosted 3.6 JK
I really was concerned with the usability of the Ripp kit off road, but the boost is instantaneous in 4 LOW so I can pull it over anything without bouncing aka breaking all sorts of important/expensive stuff :).
Great Job with the install!!! Hope you really enjoy your newly boosted JK!!!
RIPP
Hey, a real RIPP person! Fantastic.
So, quick question... Do you guys support the high altitude (I call it the high elevation, but that's another story) pulley when you're not actually at high altitude? How much extra boost does it provide when you are at lower elevations?