Automatic transmission
Printable View
Someone here said that the RIPP SC struggled to shift with the auto. I dont know if mag has the same problem. All the JL trucks are manual trans.
Anyone here have a automatic magnuson who can tell us if you have to "Lift to shift"?
Lift to shift will annoy you. Maybe ripp has worked it out by now, I'd confirm and go with wichever promised that you do not have to "Lift To Shift"
2000 for gauges is way to much i bought an aem wide band and boost built in 1 gauge omes with everything you need to install it. Mine cost 330 from pepboys definitely worth the money
How hard was it to install yourself? THX
The mag is an easy install. We did it on one day.
The lift to shift comment earlier is a good one. Id contact both companies RIPP and Mag and see if they can swear you wont have the lift to shift problem. If they tell you it will be a non issue, then you can decide. If one says no prob, and the other wont, there's your answer.
Thats a good suggestion.. Thank you. How important is the person doing the tuning at the time of install in the whole process? The Maggie dealer is quoting me four hours of tuning at $125.00 per to tune. I thought the programmer unit did the actual tuning or I am missing something here? Money is not really the issue, but I hate being taken advantage of..
My tuner took about 2.5 hours and 5 dyno pulls to dial it in the programmer is whats used to dial in your air fuel ratio along with your timing for optimal performance do not skimp on a good tuner if it comes to saving a few bucks cuase it can cost you an engine if not tuned correctly also the gauge was easy to install hardest part was welding in the wideband bung in the exhaust for the gauge
Thats good info on the guy doing the tuning. It sounds like a experienced tuner is probably the most important part of the whole process regardless of system one chooses. Thank you for your input
That is a step beyond. The tune out of the box should be good, Only if you have problems, would I pay someone to customize the tune.
The tunes take months to build, and the tuners at Ripp, Mag, Prodigy, are people who do nothing but tune.
I'd trust them first, and if you find parts you don't like, id tell the manufacturer first, see if they can correct the tune for you. If that fails, then pay a tuner.
I would not jump to screwing with an established tune until i knew i had a problem with it that the person who made it will not solve. Also, your paying by the hour, so to be able to state specific problems that need attention rather than something general will keep the cost down.
"I have a dead spot at 2500 rpm in 3rd gear" "the throttle surges at cruising speed" Stuff like that. Pinpoint the problems first, it will save time and money.
finally, and most important, make sure you have a competent shop. Needs to be a race shop or tuner where the person tuning knows what they are looking at. You don't want some fool with a dyno screwing with your truck. Check references. google the shop. look at it like selecting a doctor to work on your child.
I got a bad tune job once with a camaro i played with years ago. I got charged for the tune, it wasnt good, then they charged me for the time to fix it, stating that it was the compoents that were at fault.
custom tuning can be a can of worms. F that.
I ordered the Magnuson SC with high altitude pulley yesterday. The plan is to dyno prior to install as well as after to document the performance gains.. I will keep you posted as job gets done.
Oooooh, thank you, thank you, thank you. Magnuson SC with high elevation pulley, with 35" tires and about that gear ratio is exactly the setup I'd be looking at. Can't wait to see the before and after charts. Are you doing the install yourself or having a shop do it? Do you have any other after market mods on the engine (or planned at same time) such as high-flow air, exhaust, etc.?
BTW... Welcome ferrarifast!
Thanks Timmy! I am having the job done by Rick Squire here in Utah. Rick is a well known tuner and former owner of STS Turbo (sold for huge $$). He is a master tuner and I am hoping for some significant gains. Currently I have high flow air (Air Ram) and Magna Flow cat back exhaust done on the Jeep so we shall see what the SC adds to the mix..
do we have a date on this?
Ferrari, did you get the high alt pulley?
Rexx19,
Yes I did purchase the high altitude pulley. My elevation here in Utah is 4400-4500 ft so I thought it to be the logical way to go..
FF
When is this thing getting installed? And is Mag back to selling units? I thought they had a tune issue and pulled their units from the shelves.
Yes they are.. From what I was told by Magnuson themselves, they starting selling units again in July. Mine is scheduled to be installed the first part of October. Just had the Poison Spider front bumper and fenders installed.. Love how they look!
FFAttachment 1197
Gotta get the clear turn signals. Those yellow ones are hurting my eyes.
http://www.amazon.com/Wrangler-Right.../dp/B00GFTTNNA
Other than that, the Jeep is beautiful.
Attachment 1250Attachment 1251Friends,
The Magnuson install has been put on hold following a severe wreck yesterday. I was hit nearly head on from a older driver who ran a Red Light at the bottom of Provo Canyon. The police estimate they were travelling between 40-50 mph. The paramedic indicated that it was his opinion that my front bumper most likely saved my life.. The irony is that the bumper was just installed last Wednesday... Much thanks to Poison Spider for an excellent, safe product...
I guess that the S/C will wait for a new jeep to be purchased... My biggest worry at this point is whether Farmer's Insurance will cover my add-ons that my Jeep had. My Agent at State Farm indicated that we will pressure them to cover my accessories. Does anyone have any insurance experience where it wasn't your fault and things were covered??
Sore and bruised, yet grateful to be alive!
FF
Glad you are OK!
is the truck totaled?
frame damage?
As far as insurance, maybe others can tell about what to do after a collision. I have a separate "rider" to my auto policy that covers the mods. Or, at the very least, covers what they allowed. I piled the new gear on this policy until they told me i hit the limit.
Can you save any of the gear you put on? If they total it, would they let you take some of the stuff off? Your tires? rear and one front flare? headlights?
So some of my stuff isn't covered, but about 30k of mods on my truck are covered. I don't know how they would depreciate them after a wreck tho.
I have experience. Dealt with two accidents now, and both my father and father-in-law are in the insurance industry. My dad is actually a 35 year State Farm Agent.
So here's the deal, and one that most people don't get and get mad at your insurance company as they don't understand. Separate from the rider as mentioned earlier, the insurance company will pay you what your car is "worth" today, if you bought it today. So, don't get pissed with them when they try to establish what it was worth, instead, help them. The claims adjuster, ALL he cares about is having enough documentation to come to an agreeable figure and cut you a check. He doesn't care about you, he doesn't care about State Farm, all he cares is that he has documentation to cover his ass, so help provide him that documentation.
What you need to do is start grabbing all your invoices of add-ons. Then, research up on what the resale value is of your vehicle today, find the high, medium and low. KNOW THESE PRICES... Get them from all sorts of places, autotrader, local dealership etc. Claims adjuster will probably be dead on with this figure, but if you don't know prior, you can't disagree if you feel he is low. LET THEM give you their pay-out price first. If you like it, run with it, if not, just say "I think I have some documentation that will show you it is actually valued more at today's pricing" and offer up the documentation.
By being nice, and showing documentation of the EXACT SAME TRUCK on-line as what my wife had just totaled, I walked away with $6k MORE than what I paid for our truck. I actually made money with State Farm on the accident. I had an accident in a brand new VW Passat (months old.) I called up my dealership and said "hey, I'm sending State Farm your way to establish pricing... You give them a real high price of what that thing is worth only being months old, and I bet I'll be buying another one from you." Dealership faxed over an official document saying the vehicle would have only depreciated $0.18 per mile from new. Claims adjust took my mileage and multiplied by this (because... he had documentation from a legit dealership) and then said "Okay, they say MSRP was $$$, minus the $0.18 deprec, so how about $$$$.$$?) Answer YES - because they offered me more than what I bought it for, and dealership got another sale.
Oh, one other thing, they will want to evaluate cost to total vs cost to repair. Make sure you bring donuts to the repair shop that does the estimate ;-) Tell them you'll do future business with them if they make sure on their estimate they don't miss a single nut, bolt, screw, washer, special paint, special grease, whatever. You want the garage estimate to be as high as humanly possible. And then ask them to push it just a hair more (that's where the donuts come in.) If the accident came in to the engine block, then you have a chance. If you're new fangled bumper stopped it from hitting the engine, then there is probably no way in hell they will total it. Make sure garage evaluates if the engine needs to be replaced VERY CLOSELY. If they are in question, tell them to go hard towards replacement, tell them you don't want to have worry down the line.
Timmy,
Thank you! Your experience and advice is appreciated and well received. I have started the process of gathering my receipts (I am glad I have saved them all). I just got off the phone with the Jeep Dealer and they are going to provide me with today's cost of an identically equipped Rubi to add to my binder of documentation.
I went to the collision center today and spoke to their estimator. He said the drivers side frame rail is complete toast, but that they could get me a brand new frame and pull my intact parts off old frame, along with replacement parts in 30-40 hours. I indicated to him, that I would like to see the jeep totaled and start anew. Your advice is exactly what he said I needed to do (minus the part about dealer pricing), so looks like tonight will be spent gathering invoices, trying to remember all mods seen and unseen and go into this with knowledge.
As far and one question posted on JL about removing parts, I was told the insurance company will not allow one to "Cherry Pick" undamaged parts, accessories, etc. I don't know if all insurance companies work this way. Perhaps someone can comment on this topic.
Thanks again,
FF
Nope, they won't let you cherry pick anything, in fact, it might even be illegal to attempt this in some states. That being said, I went back to my collision shop and pulled off the rear gas strut that lets the tail gate lower slowly, and some extend-a-bed's I purchased for the rear bed. Shop owner came out, asked me what I was doing. I just said "oh, the claims adjust didn't include these in the pay-out because they were only about $50. It'll save me having to locate them again on eBay" and he was cool with it, didn't say a thing to anyone.
He ferrarifast, what type and size tires were those? I like them. Are they 35x13.5x20's?
Timmy, they are Nitto Trail Grappers 35x 12.50x 20 with a 1.5" teraflex spacer... My next Jeep will run 37's with the Maggie and 4.88 moving it down the road..
FF
Man, they look wider than 12.5", they look nice. I'm running similar. I also want to step up to 37", but I want to go to 13.5" wide. Well, hopefully you come out well on this entire accident and can actually put that money into upgrades.
Oh yeah, in all the "insurance" talk, we forgot to ask. You okay? Any neck issues, junk like that? Both airbags go off? Did you hear them (most don't)? Any other passengers in the vehicle (sorry, you might have mentioned this elsewhere, I'm feeling lazy and don't want to look.)
Timmy,
I was in the Jeep by myself. I am sore from my neck down to my waist, with most of my discomfort directly in my sternum area. Both airbags went off and I was wearing my belt.. Everything happened so fast and the impact was so loud I heard nothing other than that. The Jeep ended up 270 degrees from the direction I was turning at the intersection.. As far as the width of my rims, I was running XD 20 x 9's, which after my last moab trip two weeks ago they suffered some minor rash. I am thinking of going with some 35 x 14 x 20 PITBULL tires on my next jeep, but currently know little about them..
FF
Dang dude, glad you are okay. I had pains across my shoulder and chest for weeks from hitting the seatbelt. My accident was a 40mph head-on to someone that drifted directly in to my lane. I will never forget saying to myself, seconds before the accident "this is going to hurt." Like you, with the noise of the accident, and the rush of everything happening, I don't remember a thing about the airbags. By the time my brain started to comprehend what had happened, I noticed the cabin was filled with a gas or something which makes you start to think "fire" pretty quick, but I figured out quickly it was just the airbag gases and I was able to roll down my window to let it out.
Yeah, you rock those 35x14's. That would be awesome to see!!! Everyone is always like "wider tires drift more, Jeep won't drive on highway well" etc. etc. I say, whateve' These Jeeps weren't meant for no flippin highway, they were meant for playin' in the dirt and for scarin the crude out of little kids when you roll by (grin.) I was just thinking today, my Mickey T's Baja tires are so quiet and smooth on the road, I don't think I like them any more. I think I want a more aggressive tire that rumbles the cab a bit more, growls on the road a bit more and says "I'm a JEEP! MOVE OVER!" Of course I can say this because I already have my long distance cruiser of a sedan so I don't have to deal with those days when I just don't want to rumble down the road.
Keep us posted on your insurance stuff, very curious how you come out. And let's all pray together that the engine was encroached on for poor little FF's Jeep so that they total this sucker out.
FF!
Please do yourself a favor.
Please go see your doctor immediately.
In my state you have to go to the dr within a certain number of days for legal purposes.
I was T-Boned in December 2013, I was sore immediately, eventually MRI's showed herniations in cervical 2-3,3-4, 4-5, 5-6, 6-7 & thorasic 1.
I had 4 level fusion of c3-4 through T-1. Very expensive operation.
Lumbar is herniated in a bunch of places as well.
I am still recovering & ten months later & still not back at work yet.
Even though initially I knew I was hurt, I had no idea of how bad or how much it was going to affect the rest of my life.
Please protect you & your family & get checked by your dr. Immediately.
I strongly urge every one to get disability insurance for as much as you are allowed to get.
It has kept us from going bankrupt.
Even though the other person is 100% at fault for the accident, I am still have to pay co payments, household bills, dr bills, the list is seemingly endless.
All the best!
Magnuson is still working with Diablo to get the auto transmission to shift correctly. I've had my Magnuson on my 2012 JKU for about 3 weeks. The surging is fixed, but the transmission still requires lifting on the throttle or manually up-shifting unless you want the rpms to wind up higher for it to shift on its own. It winds out higher than it did prior to the SC install. The shifts are usually between 3k-4.5K rpms when it shifts on its own if you have moderate throttle applied. Mild throttle shifts as it did prior to the SC install except the shift from 2nd to 3rd gear. That shift might still require lifting off the throttle even at mild throttle. The shifts are tolerable, but could be smoother.
The only real issue for me is driving on the highway. At highway speeds, the transmission doesn't like staying in overdrive unless the jeep stays on level ground. I'm at about 900 feet above sea level. Any incline that requires mild throttle input to maintain speed will cause the SC to gain boost. I think the boost makes the transmission think that I hit the gas to pass someone, so it downshifts one or two gears depending on how much throttle I've added. If I hold the throttle instead of adding throttle to keep the transmission from downshifting, I'll lose about 5 mph to get over the incline, but the transmission stays in overdrive. Needless to say, I'm not using cruise control or my transmission would rarely get into overdrive.
One caveat is that my jeep is heavy, so I need more throttle to get it moving and keep it moving. The weight might be the issue because I don't think Magnuson and Diablo are using test jeeps with 40" tires, D60 and D80 axles, with steel bumpers and skid plates.