2012 JKUR (still unnamed) RIPP Supercahrger High Altitude Full Kit Install

It's here, almost totally unscathed. RIP(gigiddy) 2 spare bottles of vortech oil. The good side is they were replaced within 5 days. I will be doing and documenting the full install of the supercharger onto my JKUR. 2012 Rubicon, manual transmission, 2.5 lift, 35x12.50x17 nitto extreme terrains, stock 4.10 gearing(for now), magnaflow cat back exhaust, Totl innovations heat reduction hood.... That wraps up the mods that will come into play in the end's performance testing. Everything else just plays into the weight game. Since I get paid to break stuff for a living, it should be obvious that I'm a pretty mild to moderate mechanic. I'm also a perfectionist, so I have a good friend/head jeep mechanic @ the local dealership/ avid off-roader supervising me during this install. I have read the instruction booklet umpteen times, we are shooting for an install this Saturday.

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Originally Posted by Deola

It's here, almost totally unscathed. RIP(gigiddy) 2 spare bottles of vortech oil. The good side is they were replaced within 5 days....

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Very cool. Look forward to the install thread. I'm confused - what was broken and replaced? Vortech oil?

I cannot wait to see something on the high alt set up. JL, don't you have one of these also?

Is it installed?

Name this thing already! We saw this Jeep in the TOTL innovations hood thread.

Black right?

how about....... Black the RIPPer? (get it like "jack the ripper", but with black because the jeep is black, and its got a RIPP supercharger on it?)

Black the RIPPer is very clever.

Spare oil sent was busted open by the other things in box...but they sent the replacements in a timely manor. As far as the name that would work if my jk was black, but it's actually Black Forest Green Pearlcoat.... Hard to tell though because it's normally brown, but hey that's what they are made for right?! I love my street legal 4- wheeler:)

Ok, just got the call from my friend and he said Saturday is a go!!! I can hardly wait. Wish me luck guys and gals

Good luck with the install mine took 6 hours start to finish i have a ripp kit also its alot of fun to drive and definately worth the money

Give your internet family some PICs!

Here is one to hold you guys over till tomorrow.

OK, install is finished. Drove it home last night and went straight to bed to prep for my 24 hour shift today. To keep you updated total install time was about 10.5 hours. 2 of those hours were in the Diablosport In-tune updates and actual tuning. Ran into a problem with one of the supplied brackets, but was able to work around it with my friends help. I will start on the full write up tomorrow when I get off work. Jeep did good on the way home, no issues presented themselves. Acceleration is much better than stock...as expected. I was able to hold 6th gear at 62 mph over all height hills on my trip home. The doors and hardtop were not on my jeep, but I doubt a couple hundred pouds will skew it very much at those speeds. Bigger brakes will definately be moved higher on my list of what to mod next. Stay tuned for a ton of pics and more details.

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Originally Posted by Deola

Bigger brakes will definately be moved higher on my list of what to mod next.

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What's the reason for this?

Because turns come up a lot faster now :)

But if you are street driving, you shouldn't be needing to brake from a higher speed for corners now. For racing, it makes sense that more power needs better brakes, because you will accelerate to a higher speed between corners. On the street, you'll only be accelerating more quickly up to the same speeds that you would have accelerated up to without the supercharger (unless you treat the streets like a race track, disregarding speed limits).

The brakes only care how quickly you need to slow down from what speed. It doesn't matter how quickly you accelerated up to that speed.

Regardless of whether or not I speed over the mountains, I already had bigger brakes on my list for the terrain I live and wheel on, what I tow, and the extra weight my jku carries with add-ons.bigger brakes are now higher on my list than they used to be.

Attachment 958Attachment 959Attachment 960A week before the unit came I ran all of my 87 octane out and refilled with 93 so that part would be good to go for install. OK, here we go. First off we had to get the stock parts outta the way. I disconnected the battery, removed the stock air box and piping back to throttle body ( when removing the air temp sensor...it was noted in instructions to note how it was facing and to be careful not to damage it), engine coolant over flow tank ( not reused- new one provided) upper shroud, Plastic cover and foam pieces over intake manifold.

Attachment 961Attachment 962Attachment 963Attachment 964

Attachment 965Attachment 966Attachment 967Attachment 968Attachment 969Next up was preparing to remove intake manifold. First off I had to unplug and remove the vacuum lines behind the throttle body, unplug and remove the map sensor, and unplug the throttle body. Then I unplugged the large data plug just to the passenger side of the manifold. Then I pulled the harness from the manifold by pulling the plastic push clips. Hint** A pair of 45 degree long nose plies came in handy each and every time I had to pull the plastic clips or screws during this install. None were damaged and all were able to be reused.**

Note that the brackets 1 on passenger side and 2 on driver side> I removed the bolts to allow a little play in them to avoid damaging the plenum behind the throttle body<-- It wasn't noted in the instructions, but it made life much simpler.

Ryan, my question is, since you are like the first human in the US to have driven standard RIPP and HIGH ALT RIPP, can you tell the difference?

Is your truck faster than your dads?

Dads has the 456 gearing on 33s vs the stock 410 in mine with 35s. so that's a hard call. I do like the manual with boost far better than his boosted auto though hands down. Did you ever get that pulley measured? Im trying to set up a little head to head between the 2 of us but its been pouring rain all day today and I just got called into work for tomorrow. Maybe the later part of the week will allow that comparison.

Attachment 972Attachment 973Attachment 974Attachment 975OK, the next step is the removal of the 7(8mm) bolts that hold the manifold in place, and the 2(10mm) bolts on the passenger side of the manifold. Then 2 more 10 mm bolts on the bracket located on the driver side rear of the manifold. Now the manifold lifts straight up with a little guidance around remaining parts. Once off cover your intake ports with cloth or better yet painters tape, to prevent dropping something into the motor.

Attachment 977Attachment 978Attachment 979Attachment 980The injectors are up next. Each injector has a red latch on the plug before you can remove it. The middle one on the passenger side is a little difficult to get to but the 45 degree plies did the trick. Then use a torx-27 socket drive to remove the 4 bolts holding the fuel rail in place. The next step provided by RIPP said to leave the fuel rail in the vehicle, but it was easier for me to remove the rail. Then you just pull the injectors out slowly, make sure the lower O-rings are kept up with. They aren't reused. Instead they are replaced with the black provided O-rings on the new injectors. The new injectors are higher than the old ones so you get 4 shims to elevate everything to the right height. there are also 4 screws included that replace the stock ones. I used a tiny drop of locktite to hold the 4 shims in place while aligning everything back up to prevent any accidents. Also a touch of grease on the new injectors helps with the install. Tighten down the new hardware and the injectors are done.

Did you notice much oil on the grey rubber seals?! Keep those away from solvents or they can deform and become useless.

Which ones are you referring to?

The 6 rubber seals on the intake manifold:

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Originally Posted by Deola

Attachment 980

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Not trying to be a smartass just wondering if you are talking about the seals in the ports or on the fuel injectors.

Oh ok, yeah they were in really good shape. Only 10,500 miles on the Jeep now, so things were all in pretty good shape still all around

Dude! is that unnamed jeep a bullet now?

"rid thru the desert in a jeep with no name, it felt good to be out of the rain"

Name that tune?

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Originally Posted by Pznivy

Dude! is that unnamed jeep a bullet now?

"rid thru the desert in a jeep with no name, it felt good to be out of the rain"

Name that tune?

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'Merica! Horse With No Name. Whats my prize? Am I the 15th caller!?

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Originally Posted by Pznivy

Dude! is that unnamed jeep a bullet now?

"rid thru the desert in a jeep with no name, it felt good to be out of the rain"

Name that tune?

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It is, feels stock till 2800 rpm, then it goes hard through the rest of the power band.

Attachment 986Attachment 987Attachment 988Attachment 989Ok, next up we have the spark plugs. RIPP recommends NGK in their manual (either copper or iridium, but not platinum). NAPA is the only store that regularly stocks them in my area. I was given the wrong size thread @ NAPA, and I didn't realize this till I pulled the stock ones outta my JK. Soooo I ended up gapping the stocks to .032 inches. Which turns out to be fine. I didn't know it but they come with Champion Iridium plugs from the factory. So first you unplug all 6 coils from the valve cover and carefully remove them. I found a slight upward pressure while carefully turning a 1/4 back and fourth was the easiest. I used a plug puller magnet to fetch the plugs out after loosening them up with a socket and extension. Then its as easy as gapping them down (they seemed to be about .035 stock). Then you just reinstall reversing the steps. The only plug that was difficult to access was the center plug on the passenger side.

Attachment 990Attachment 991Attachment 992Attachment 993Attachment 994Next up you have to cut the intake manifold on the passenger side to allow room for the now shimmed higher fuel rail. I let Robert do this step while I was changing the plugs out since he was familiar with his air tools. Its not a lot that needs to come off, we just trimmed a little then set it in place and kept taking small amounts each time until it fit.

To finish up your work in this part you just plug everything back up replace all the hardware (don't forget the brackets that you backed off earlier). Then you just plug the Ripp MAP sensor in where the stock one sat previously.

Super Jealous. you should send some pics to ripp with that hood you have. You'll probably make their Facebook page.

I gotta get a pic of my Dad's and mine together since we have the same hoods and each have a RIPP now.

yes, you owe us a photo shoot too. These engine pics are good, but I want to see the whole jeep!

Maybe a father son photo shoot.

Attachment 996Attachment 996[ATTACH=CONFIG]996[/ATTACH here is the exterior of mine

your truck looks like BB, but better because you have the half doors!

It's actually just full doors and no top. Sorry to make you guys wait so long for this write up but I've worked 77 hours of overtime these past 9 days... On the plus side there will be 4.88s in my jk soon