That's the breather for the PCV system, which connects to the driver-side valve cover. This is my own temporary setup because the kit at one point had no solution for filtering the air that gets sucked in there (fresh air enters there to replace the oily air that is sucked through the PCV valve/hose into the intake manifold). Prodigy has since started including a breather filter that fits right into the original hose that used to connect to the air filter box. I hacked up my original hoses/pipes for the PCV system to experiment with some alternative setups. I actually have new replacements on order at a dealer so I can finalize my PCV setup and start using the new breather filter from Prodigy.
I didn't know there was more than one way that the MAP sensor could physically be hooked up. Please share details of how it can be accidentally hooked up wrong. We'll try not to tease you too much if it was a really stupid mistake
That's expected right after installing the turbo kit. There's probably air in the system from draining/refilling the cooling system. It should work itself out in a few days. You should check the coolant level in the radiator and the reservoir when the engine is cold and add more coolant if necessary.
In this case for me, it was clearly due to the heater hose connections allowing air into the system. All the clamps were a bit loose (because the hoses had compressed under the clamps over time), and the problem worked itself out after I tightened up all the clamps. I suspect NOLA's water sound issues will now disappear within a couple days. If so, then that's more evidence that the worm-gear clamps are not ideal for this application.
If you have the water sounds AND no/low heat blowing out of some of the vents, then you have a clogged heater core that needs to be replaced. This is a known issue caused by casting sand leftover in some engine blocks. This is covered under warranty. Another possible cause for this is mixing HOAT and OAT coolant, which turns into very nasty/gooey stuff and would NOT be covered under warranty.
If you get the water sound with every cold start, but heat works fine... check your coolant level (radiator AND reservoir). Burp air out of the system and top off the radiator.
If the problem is now permanently fixed, then you just had some stubborn air in the system.
If the total amount of coolant remains stable after you top it off, but the problem keeps coming back, then air is being introduced into the system somehow every time you drive, so you probably have a slightly loose seal somewhere (in my case, slightly loose hose clamps). Worst case would be a bad head gasket allowing some combustion gasses into the cooling system, but that would likely cause more severe problems.
If the total amount of coolant is not stable (losing coolant), then you either have a coolant leak somewhere, or a bad head gasket that is allowing coolant into the cylinders, which is being burned off.
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