Crap... need to revisit this. The check valve rapidly opens and closes at idle, which vibrates through the plastic pipe and through the intake manifold (because it's clipped into the manifold). It makes an annoying buzzing noise that can be heard from inside the jeep. I think I need to come up with something that uses a portion of the provided rubber hoses to isolate the vibration.Originally Posted by UselessPickles
Is that part of prodigy's plan? or did you alter something?
That is my own modification. Prodigy's current plan is to just completely replace the original plastic pipe with some hose:
This was all described back in this post: http://jeeplab.com/showthread.php?13...=2093#post2093
I now have a revised modification. Instead of threading the check valve into the middle of the plastic pipe, I'm now replacing the end of the plastic pipe with the check valve and a small piece of rubber hose.
At the bottom is the back end of the original PCV pipe. To the left is the original rubber elbow that connects the pipe to the valve cover (at the back of the engine). To the upper right is the end of the crankcase breather pipe/hose that used to connect to the air box (this part is completely unused now with the turbo kit, so it's ready to be sacrificed!).
The rest of these photos should speak for themselves:
BOOM!
Simple modification to retain nearly all of the original PCV pipe, to retain OEM appearance. The check valve is now isolated on both ends by rubber, so the vibration caused by it opening/closing rapidly is now absorbed. No more annoying noise.
NOTE: The S-shaped rubber hose from the breather pipe is larger diameter at one end than the other. use the smaller diameter end, and put the original small diameter end onto the remainder of the PCV pipe. The cut end is slightly larger diameter, so it is better suited for connecting to the check valve's barbed hose fitting (which is a bit larger than the PCV pipe).
Unfortunately, I can't show you the complete modded PCV pipe assembly, because I had already cut mine in half for the first failed mod. Mine is mended back together with a piece of rubber hose for now. I will stop by the dealer to order a new plastic pipe at some point so I can start fresh with the new mod.
Oops, I went out of order a bit. The following stuff comes in the instructions before messing with the crankcase ventilation stuff.
Here's two short hoses left over from that aluminum coolant pipe assembly that was removed. These connect to the heater core for blowing hot air in your face on a cold morning:
These get trashed. Rather than fighting to remove them normally, the instructions give you the easy way out: carefully cut a slit on the ends of the hoses with a utility knife, then peal the hoses off:
After this, the instructions have you install the oil feed line at the oil pressure sensor (which I already covered), then the instructions have you install the new fuel injectors in the lower intake manifold (which I also already covered).
Next, re-install the lower intake manifold. I don't have a specific picture for this. It looks the same re-installed as it did before it was removed.
Then the crankcase ventilation stuff (which I already covered).
Next up: starting to hook up the new hoses that replace the aluminum coolant pipe assembly for the heater core.
There's a couple steps crammed into one picture here:
The obvious one is the hose I'm pointing at, which connects to the driver-side heater core fitting.
Less obvious is that a short hose and T-fitting are connected to the passenger-side heater core fitting. One of the original coolant hoses is connected to the bottom of the T.
And a long hose is connected down here in the front of the engine where one of the aluminum pipes used to connect:
The other end of the hose will eventually connect to that T fitting at the heater core, but it is just set aside out of the way for now, because it will have to be carefully routed around turbo components before being connected. Hose clamps are used at all connections involving these coolant/heater hoses. you can also see a lonely end of an oil feed line in that picture, just waiting for a turbo to connect to.
Time to make room for the turbo's air filter:
The air box support is in the way, so it needs to be trimmed. I used a Dremel with a routing bit. Be careful not to cut through other nearby things, like a wiring harness and the fender liner. I actually unfastened the front half of the fender liner and folded it out of the way:
The instructions don't tell you to fold the fender liner out of the way until much later when it's time to install the air filter (yes, the air filter must be installed through the wheel well). I found that it was very helpful to fold it out of the way now, and leave it folded out of the way for better access/visibility in the area where the turbo will go.
After trimming the air box support, I cleaned up the cut edge with a sanding drum bit in the Dremel.
Check out my newly blacked-out pipe and clamps:
No expensive ceramic or powder coatings. Just a $4 spray can of high-temp matte black paint for BBQ grills
Also a water-repellent air filter wrap to protect the air filter from splashes of water/mud.
So much info!
Pickles... YOU ROCK.
Now. Im about to get the handcuffs off. Prodigy has bought the plane tickets, and we are expecting them up here on friday. The 11th.
Time to drill a hole in the oil pan!
Drain the oil. You might as well change the oil filter now too.
Then remove all the oil pan bolts. On two corners, there are nuts instead of bolts. Loosen those nuts to the ends of the studs, but don't remove them yet. These will hold the oil pan from suddenly falling once you get it pried loose.
There's an exhaust hanger that we found to be in the way of prying the oil pan off. It needs to come off later anyway, so we just removed it at this point:
All the oil pan bolts are removed in that picture, and you can see one of the nuts at the left corner. Next, just very carefully pry the oil pan off, trying not to bend it. It's stuck in place with gasket material. We used a flat blade screw driver and a hammer, tapping it between the pan and the engine, small amounts at a time, working around the whole oil pan.
Have something under the jeep to catch the oil that will be dripping out of the engine while the oil pan is off.
I went slightly out of order with oil pan cleaning steps, because I'd rather do one thorough cleaning at the very end after doing all things that can make a mess. I wiped out excess oil from the pan to avoid creating more mess, but didn't try to thoroughly clean it right away. All that nasty gasket material needs to come off both the engine and the oil pan. I used a razor blade scraper and some patience:
Then use one of the washers from the oil return fitting to plan where you'll drill a hole in the oil pan. It goes on the front, about in the middle (between two bolt holes), and as high up as you can go while keeping the washer on a completely flat surface.
I used a screw or nail just to mark the center of the hole, then used a very small drill bit to drill a pilot hole before attacking the oil pan with the 7/8" hole saw bit.
Then the rough edges of the hole need to be cleaned up and smoothed. I used a grinding bit in my Dremel. Now that you're done creating sealant shavings and metal shavings, it's time for a thorough cleaning. Running water, a rag and dish soap worked well for me. Dry it thoroughly, then time to install the oil fitting.
Sealant (oil resistant silicone gasket maker) on both sides of the hole:
Instructions on the tube of sealant say to let the sealant partially cure for a short time (I think 20 minutes) before assembly.
After snugging up the fitting, wipe the excess sealant away on both sides. Then apply sealant to the oil pan.
Let it partially cure again before installing the oil pan.
Don't refill the oil yet
Last edited by UselessPickles; 07-06-2014 at 08:31 PM.
Can't wait to start hearing your feedback and comparisons to the superchargers
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