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  1. #1
    Quote Originally Posted by Gunner View Post
    They should just make this thread their install manual.
    Pickles, that ^^ is the best compliment ive ever seen. Well done.

  2. #2
    Thanks

    And there's so many details that could be better explained if I had taken the time to take more pictures, and many details I did not describe because they are already explained well in the install guide. After trying to document my install as best as possible, I have a new appreciation for how much effort would be necessary to create a complete, detailed, step-by-step install guide.


    I still have a few more details that I will get to documenting eventually. I have a final PCV hose setup now (until I decide to try working in some oil catch cans in the future), an idea for a better location for the coolant reservoir, and a story about a tiny power steering fluid leak that became a serious leak requiring immediate attention after I tried fixing it.

  3. #3
    I may have shot flames out of my exhaust

    After a full throttle acceleration in 1st and 2nd gear, I quickly let off the throttle and shift into neutral (with the intention to shift into 6th gear as soon as the engine speed comes down) around 50mph, because I'm on a public road and want to avoid speeding. A split second afterward, I hear a significant muffled "pop" come from behind/below the jeep.

    This has happened a few times recently. My wife heard it the other day and also immediately wondered if I had just shot flames out the tailpipe.

    Has anyone else experienced this?

    I wonder if this is an indication that the tune is a bit too rich?

    I might have to stick my GoPro on the back of the jeep and attempt to re-create this situation at night.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by UselessPickles View Post
    I may have shot flames out of my exhaust

    After a full throttle acceleration in 1st and 2nd gear, I quickly let off the throttle and shift into neutral (with the intention to shift into 6th gear as soon as the engine speed comes down) around 50mph, because I'm on a public road and want to avoid speeding. A split second afterward, I hear a significant muffled "pop" come from behind/below the jeep.

    This has happened a few times recently. My wife heard it the other day and also immediately wondered if I had just shot flames out the tailpipe.

    Has anyone else experienced this?

    I wonder if this is an indication that the tune is a bit too rich?

    I might have to stick my GoPro on the back of the jeep and attempt to re-create this situation at night.
    Happens to me every time i go full throttle, pedal to the floor and then let off. I hear that loud ass POP from the exhaust!

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by NOLAjeeper View Post
    Happens to me every time i go full throttle, pedal to the floor and then let off. I hear that loud ass POP from the exhaust!
    It happens to me also. Jeff please try this. Put the gear in second and at 1500 rpm press full throttle. Tell me what happens before it reach 2500.

    I promised Dan to shoot a video but didn't have a chance.


    By the way i don't know why i received a short elbow pipe which is between the intercooler and the turbo, seems like the gave me an extension pipe to add, but when i saw Jeff close setup then realised that i got it wrong. Now every time i boost on hills the pipe comes out.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by jeepsking View Post
    Put the gear in second and at 1500 rpm press full throttle. Tell me what happens before it reach 2500.
    If I try that today, I'll probably crash because it's snowing here

    When I recently recorded a data log to make the boost curve chart, that was full throttle in second gear from about 1500 rpm. I don't remember anything particularly bad happening, other than just generally not accelerating very quickly until after 2500 rpm.

    It's been so long since I've driven with a stock engine that I can't tell whether it's slower, faster, or the same as stock in the low rpm range. Part of the sluggish feeling is likely due to relative comparison to how hard it accelerates above 2500 rpm, but I think there's still some issues with the tune in that area as well.

    My data logs still show long-term fuel trims suddenly going extremely negative at 1500 rpm, then suddenly returning to more "normal" values around 2600 rpm. When accelerating lightly/moderately in 1st gear, especially with a cold engine, I feel a sudden decrease in power as I pass 1500 rpm, then a sudden jerk and surge in power right around 2600-2800 rpm. The severity varies with the amount of throttle I'm using, and the problem becomes fairly subtle when the engine is fully warmed up. The relationship between the long-term fuel trims and the acceleration behavior seems to close to be coincidence, and seems to me to indicate a problem with the tune. If tuned properly, the computer should not have to take away 20+% fuel in the 1500-2600 rpm range.

    Have you gotten a custom tune from Prodigy yet?


    Quote Originally Posted by jeepsking View Post
    By the way i don't know why i received a short elbow pipe which is between the intercooler and the turbo, seems like the gave me an extension pipe to add, but when i saw Jeff close setup then realised that i got it wrong. Now every time i boost on hills the pipe comes out.
    The longer 1-piece silicone elbow that I have is a newer part that Prodigy now has custom ordered for the stage 2 kit. The shorter elbow that you have is a "standard" size (easy for Prodigy to obtain) that they used at first before getting the custom size. The shorter version requires a short metal pipe to be used as a coupler to attach a short extension of silicone hose to reach the turbo. You'll end up with 3 hose clamps in a row, right next to each other to connect the turbo, extension, coupler and elbow all together.

    There's not much room for error, so you just need to get the coupler perfectly centered between the elbow and extension, get the hose clamps lined up perfectly and make sure all the hose clamps are tight. You also might need to double-check the angle of the compressor housing outlet compared to the angle of the silicone hose to make sure they are meeting each other in a straight line. The silicone hose only overlaps the compressor outlet just barely enough to use a hose clamp. Get that hose clamp right up to the very edge of the silicon to ensure that it is fully clamping down against the compressor outlet, rather than trying to squeeze the silicone off the end of the compressor outlet.

  7. #7
    I just found some more pictures worth posting...






    Installing stage 2 was a husband/wife bonding experience

  8. #8
    Thats very cool that your wife comes out to help. Mine will get dirty when she has to but otherwise she is happier keeping me company and filled with liquids.

  9. #9
    Yup. But to say that it "vents out" above the transmission is misleading, because the engine actively sucks air IN through that hose any time there is vacuum in the manifold!

    I'm reusing the original plastic breather hose, so Prodigy's hose is not involved in my setup at all.

    Now that I think of it, Prodigy's intent with this new breather filter may be to simply attach it to the end of their breather hose that hangs above the transmission. This would at least filter the air coming into the crankcase, and would minimize oily smell by not being in the engine compartment, but I wouldn't want my crankcase vent down there when I'm splashing through mud/water. I really don't know what the latest official Prodigy setup is now with regards to the PCV system.

    In case you are interested in obtaining new OEM hoses for the PCV system, a dealer should be able to easily find them in their system if you describe it to them as "pcv hose" and "make-up air hose". One was $15.85 and the other was $17.50.

  10. #10
    May i recommend as you mentioned earlier us with the ripp are adding oil catch cans for the pcv systems i suggest adding one to your turbo setup as any forced induction motor should have one from what my tuner told me. Also the boost entering the pcv system essentially pressurizing the crank case is not a very good thing to do it puts more uneeded stress on internals. Ripp sells the check valve for the pcv system for 60 bucks or comes standard on the kit it lets the manifold suck air thru when not under boost but when boost enters it closes and no boost will enter the crank case

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