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  1. #1
    "So this is now a completely closed system, with oil being captured out of the air and returned to the oil pan (instead of sucked into the intake and burned in the engine). Unfortunately, it's no longer a PCV system. It's now just a passive ventilation system."

    Wrong-- The System was always closed- unless Prodigy's turbo kit installation told you to put a tube from the PCV Valve venting to the open it is closed. It is not a passive system. It still requires vacuum pressure from the engine to draw out positive pressure zones within the crankcase. The fact that it vents into a oil can has nothing to do with nature of the pressure required to operate the PCV Valve... in fact without a vacuum on one side and high pressure zone on the other valve would never open and it would only build up pressure in crankcase and start to have engine problems.


    "I'll probably order it soon and initially install it as directed by Prodigy. I'm curious to see if part-throttle driveability improves by no longer having oil vapors enter the intake through the PCV hose. Then I'll modify the install a bit to return full PCV functionality, and run only the breather hose through the catch can. If there's no noticeable difference, then I'll keep it setup with the PCV operational. If I notice a difference, then I'll start looking into a dual catch can setup (one for the PCV hose, and one for the breather hose) for a completely ideal, fully functional/closed PCV system with minimal oil vapors getting into the intake."

    If it is a closed system why do you need a catch can on the air breather??? You'll only restrict the flow of air further and force the engine to operate with higher than normal pressures. The secret to making an engine breather better is not to putt long lengths of small diameter tubes that restrict air flow but to use short large diameter tubes that promote free flow. Again you've not changed the fact the valve is operating on vacuum drawing the high pressure crankcase gases out of the engine and clean air into the engine.

    So, I repeat do you want to try this explanation again?

  2. #2
    And so much else wrong with the other stuff you posted, and misinterpreted about what I've said. I won't even bother refuting/clarifying it all.

    Please, anyone that is reading this, just ignore KaiserBill's posts. I feel the compulsion to refute every wrong thing that he's said for the benefit of anyone that comes along and reads this, but it's not worth my time.

  3. #3
    After much internal struggle, I finally ended up ordering Prodigy's oil catch can kit rather than going for a completely custom catch can setup. I just installed it this past weekend. I'll try to post install pics/details soon.

    Also in progress is that I will be correcting a problem with my BOV. It turns out that I was mistakenly sent a BOV with the wrong spring. The spring is too soft for the amount of vacuum the Jeep's engine creates at idle. The end result is that the BOV stays open at idle and when cruising at lower speeds (40 mph and lower). Swapping in the correct spring should improve throttle response in low engine load conditions.

    For the sake of keeping a running history in this thread of what I've done, I'll mention that I upgraded to the Precision turbo a while back, and just recently added a boost controller.

    click for full size


    click for full size

  4. #4
    you are smart to stick with the turbo manufacturer. If you used another boost controller and the turbo explodes, you know what they'd say.

    I always stick with one manufacturer. That way they have no excuse when things go wrong.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Pznivy View Post
    you are smart to stick with the turbo manufacturer. If you used another boost controller and the turbo explodes, you know what they'd say.

    I always stick with one manufacturer. That way they have no excuse when things go wrong.
    I'm using a different boost controller. Prodigy is using the AEM Tru-Boost: http://www.aemelectronics.com/?q=pro...ype-controller

  6. #6
    Prodigy has come up with a better location for the coolant expansion tank in their stage 2 kit. Basically right where the original expansion tank sits. Here's an install video:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12LR5t8xxJY


    I'll be relocating mine as soon as the weather warms up. The current location of mine is better than Prodigy's original location, but mine blocks the fuse box lid from opening all the way: http://jeeplab.com/showthread.php?13...ull=1#post3638


    In other news... Prodigy is developing a series of youtube videos that walk through the entire turbo kit install. They are not yet organized into playlists, but you can find them all here an dwatch them in numeric order: https://www.youtube.com/user/855TurboJeep/videos

  7. #7
    I finally recorded some video of the Stage 2 turbo with the Precision upgrade. Enjoy the sounds!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1TCzCAcfajU


  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by UselessPickles View Post
    I finally recorded some video of the Stage 2 turbo with the Precision upgrade. Enjoy the sounds!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1TCzCAcfajU

    AWSOME! Is the build over? whats next?

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Rexx19 View Post
    Is the build over? whats next?
    I think I'm done messing with the turbo for now. I will probably relocate the coolant reservoir to the new location suggested by Prodigy, but that's a minor/quick project.

    I'm finally getting tires this weekend. 33x12.5x15 Duratracs. This should give me a lot more grip and let me use the turbo more on my next trip to the sand dunes. I really hope I can live with the bigger tires and my 3.21 gears until I save up for a re-gear (next priority, with TrueTrac LSD front and rear). And that's the entirety of my dreams for building up my Jeep.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Timmy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UselessPickles View Post
    I finally recorded some video of the Stage 2 turbo with the Precision upgrade. Enjoy the sounds!
    Nice job Pickles!!!

    Hey, a question for you. I see you have a 6-speed. Your shifts seem to be very quick in the video. I honestly don't think I could shift that fast because I literally need to pause a bit between shifts or it clicks/grinds on the way in. Do you have this same issue? Do you need to pause a second from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, etc? I'm thinking that my manual transmission has actually been a little beat up. I'm not sure how the previous owner drove, but I know I drive hard AND, I taught my daughter to drive a stick using my Jeep. As you can imagine, there was plenty of clutch burning (given that at the time I had big tires and was under-geared) and plenty of grinding. Just curious if you can give some insight into how your Jeep shifts. Is it smooth? Can you literally shift as quick as possible or do you need to do like me and pause just a hair between gears so that it drops in smoother? (same question to anyone with a 6spd.)
    Last edited by Timmy; 03-10-2016 at 10:33 PM.
    2014 Jeep JKU Sahara, Manual - /OlllllllO\ - 4" Metal Cloak lift, 37" Toyo Open Country's on 20" XD Bully Rims, 4.56 Yukon gears, Mopar High Top Fenders, ARB Front Bull Bar Bumper, ARB Rear Bumper, Teraflex HD Tire Carrier, Teraflex Tire Carrier Accessory Mount, Twin Rotopax mount, Hi-Lift Jack mounted on front bumper, Reverse LED work lights, Warn 9.5ti winch, Synergy Drag Link, Trackbar Relocation Bracket, AMP Power Steps, JK1001 Radio, SpiderShade.

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