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  1. #1
    Senior Member Timmy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrWayneD View Post
    Thanks Tim, I did call AMP and though he really couldn't help with a diagram, he stated that I would have to use diodes ( Ok above my pay grade) as the steps uses a negative ground to operate and taking it off the dome would require positive activation and that you would have to prevent back feed. Suggestion also was made to use the door locks as power. I just wish there was a clear diagram as to wire this and I agree with a SPDT lighted switch
    Diodes? That's crazy.. Just follow my original instructions for linking your AMP steps to your dome light using a $15 relay from the store. Once you have done that, you are basically there. Then you have my instructions for dome light, their instructions for using the door signaling. Last step, toss a switch between the two options to chose which signaling you want to use, they both do the same thing just at different times.

    Also, linking to your door lock won't work because door lock is momentary. You need something that provides constant negative grounding. The dome light provides constant 12v positive, that's why we use a relay switch. It receives that 12v positive signal and charges an internal magnet that in turn close the gate leading to a ground signal thereby providing constant negative grounding the entire time the gate is closed (aka the entire time the dome light is on.) One REALLY fun thing with this solution (for when the doors are off) is that magnet goes bonkers when the dome lights "dim" down, so it gives this little buzzing sound that warns you that the steps are about to retract. Once it's done buzzing, you have 2 seconds to either hop in or press the unlock button on your key fob to give yourself "bonus time."

    Here, I whipped up a pretty Visio diagram to explain it better. You could get fancy and go with a three position switch instead of the two position switch I described here. Then you could set it so position 1 leads to the door solution, position 2 goes to nothing and position 3 goes to the dome light solution. By doing that, you'll get a way to deactivate the AMP steps from retracting entirely by putting it into position 2 (basically neutral because you never connect a grounding wire to one of position two's leads.)

    Click image for larger version. 

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    2014 Jeep JKU Sahara, Manual - /OlllllllO\ - 4" Metal Cloak lift, 37" Toyo Open Country's on 20" XD Bully Rims, 4.56 Yukon gears, Mopar High Top Fenders, ARB Front Bull Bar Bumper, ARB Rear Bumper, Teraflex HD Tire Carrier, Teraflex Tire Carrier Accessory Mount, Twin Rotopax mount, Hi-Lift Jack mounted on front bumper, Reverse LED work lights, Warn 9.5ti winch, Synergy Drag Link, Trackbar Relocation Bracket, AMP Power Steps, JK1001 Radio, SpiderShade.

  2. #2

    Switch

    So I would basically need to buy a switch that is On / Off/ On?

    Quote Originally Posted by Timmy View Post
    Diodes? That's crazy.. Just follow my original instructions for linking your AMP steps to your dome light using a $15 relay from the store. Once you have done that, you are basically there. Then you have my instructions for dome light, their instructions for using the door signaling. Last step, toss a switch between the two options to chose which signaling you want to use, they both do the same thing just at different times.

    Also, linking to your door lock won't work because door lock is momentary. You need something that provides constant negative grounding. The dome light provides constant 12v positive, that's why we use a relay switch. It receives that 12v positive signal and charges an internal magnet that in turn close the gate leading to a ground signal thereby providing constant negative grounding the entire time the gate is closed (aka the entire time the dome light is on.) One REALLY fun thing with this solution (for when the doors are off) is that magnet goes bonkers when the dome lights "dim" down, so it gives this little buzzing sound that warns you that the steps are about to retract. Once it's done buzzing, you have 2 seconds to either hop in or press the unlock button on your key fob to give yourself "bonus time."

    Here, I whipped up a pretty Visio diagram to explain it better. You could get fancy and go with a three position switch instead of the two position switch I described here. Then you could set it so position 1 leads to the door solution, position 2 goes to nothing and position 3 goes to the dome light solution. By doing that, you'll get a way to deactivate the AMP steps from retracting entirely by putting it into position 2 (basically neutral because you never connect a grounding wire to one of position two's leads.)

    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #3
    Senior Member Timmy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigKevSeattle View Post
    So I would basically need to buy a switch that is On / Off/ On?
    If you are looking to control where you signaling comes from, the yes, just a simple switch to change your grounding source. You don't need a switch if you don't want it. It doesn't have to be a three position, it could be just a two position. I just tossed out the idea of a three position because then you can effectively turn "off" the signaling all together, say if you were off-roading and you didn't want your steps to ever retract.
    2014 Jeep JKU Sahara, Manual - /OlllllllO\ - 4" Metal Cloak lift, 37" Toyo Open Country's on 20" XD Bully Rims, 4.56 Yukon gears, Mopar High Top Fenders, ARB Front Bull Bar Bumper, ARB Rear Bumper, Teraflex HD Tire Carrier, Teraflex Tire Carrier Accessory Mount, Twin Rotopax mount, Hi-Lift Jack mounted on front bumper, Reverse LED work lights, Warn 9.5ti winch, Synergy Drag Link, Trackbar Relocation Bracket, AMP Power Steps, JK1001 Radio, SpiderShade.

  4. #4
    So , switch aside, I took it to another shop today to get them to work off the dome light. They couldn't get it to work either. Printed out your step by step instructions and they still had the same problem. Steps would go down with dome light and then wouldn't go back up unless you manually turn off the dome light with the tree.

  5. #5
    Thank you for all the help and info and sorry for the delay in my reply. I was away from the computer for a few days I guess now I need to put together the "Door Signaling, Dome light solution combined with the AMP Control unit with the switch diagram and try and make it work! Right?

    Thanks
    Wayne

  6. #6
    Senior Member Timmy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrWayneD View Post
    Thank you for all the help and info and sorry for the delay in my reply. I was away from the computer for a few days I guess now I need to put together the "Door Signaling, Dome light solution combined with the AMP Control unit with the switch diagram and try and make it work! Right?

    Thanks
    Wayne
    Yep! I really think it will be easier than you think. Feel free to ask any questions if you get into it though and something's not working out. You JUST might inspire me to put this solution in my vehicle. I happen to have an extra switch that is waiting to be put into my dash somewhere.
    2014 Jeep JKU Sahara, Manual - /OlllllllO\ - 4" Metal Cloak lift, 37" Toyo Open Country's on 20" XD Bully Rims, 4.56 Yukon gears, Mopar High Top Fenders, ARB Front Bull Bar Bumper, ARB Rear Bumper, Teraflex HD Tire Carrier, Teraflex Tire Carrier Accessory Mount, Twin Rotopax mount, Hi-Lift Jack mounted on front bumper, Reverse LED work lights, Warn 9.5ti winch, Synergy Drag Link, Trackbar Relocation Bracket, AMP Power Steps, JK1001 Radio, SpiderShade.

  7. #7
    thanks for the last diagram.. I am thinking of pulling the trigger on some steps soon and wanted a solution for doorless activation.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Timmy's Avatar
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    SMALL update.

    I JUST put a relay switch in-line with the AMP head power and connected it up to my SwitchPro's 8100 8-switch system and now I can disable the Power Amp steps with the push of the button. I've found that when I go out mudding that if you prevent the steps from retracting while they are caked in mud that they will perform much better when you get home and spray them off before using them again. When they are constantly going up and down while caked with mud, too much mud gets in to all the moving parts and can stop them from functioning correctly. Previously I was pulling the fuse prior to going mudding to disable the steps. I always wanted a way to disable the steps via a button inside the Jeep so I don't even have to open up the hood. Now I finally have that. My next upgrade is going to be either using my SwitchPro's switch or another dedicated toggle button to toggle the input source between the door signaling versus the dome lights. That will make it easier when I take the doors on and off as then I can just toggle the switch to use whichever input I desire instead of having to physically re-wire the signaling from the door vs. dome light.
    2014 Jeep JKU Sahara, Manual - /OlllllllO\ - 4" Metal Cloak lift, 37" Toyo Open Country's on 20" XD Bully Rims, 4.56 Yukon gears, Mopar High Top Fenders, ARB Front Bull Bar Bumper, ARB Rear Bumper, Teraflex HD Tire Carrier, Teraflex Tire Carrier Accessory Mount, Twin Rotopax mount, Hi-Lift Jack mounted on front bumper, Reverse LED work lights, Warn 9.5ti winch, Synergy Drag Link, Trackbar Relocation Bracket, AMP Power Steps, JK1001 Radio, SpiderShade.

  9. #9
    Sorry,, I am new to this.. is the yellow wire underneath passenger footwell? Is it the wire that connects the light for the footwell? Anyone please help.. thank you

  10. #10
    Senior Member Timmy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by baron_conrad07 View Post
    Sorry,, I am new to this.. is the yellow wire underneath passenger footwell? Is it the wire that connects the light for the footwell? Anyone please help.. thank you
    Hopefully this will help.

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    2014 Jeep JKU Sahara, Manual - /OlllllllO\ - 4" Metal Cloak lift, 37" Toyo Open Country's on 20" XD Bully Rims, 4.56 Yukon gears, Mopar High Top Fenders, ARB Front Bull Bar Bumper, ARB Rear Bumper, Teraflex HD Tire Carrier, Teraflex Tire Carrier Accessory Mount, Twin Rotopax mount, Hi-Lift Jack mounted on front bumper, Reverse LED work lights, Warn 9.5ti winch, Synergy Drag Link, Trackbar Relocation Bracket, AMP Power Steps, JK1001 Radio, SpiderShade.

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