If it makes you feel better i had a bad map sensor from ripp they overnited me a new one and it started right up once i installed the new one
If it makes you feel better i had a bad map sensor from ripp they overnited me a new one and it started right up once i installed the new one
I can only assume (and it's only that—an assumption) that many others have installed this setup successfully, which gives me some hope that there's just a simple error someplace and once corrected everything will just fall into place.
At least that's what I'll keep telling myself for now, because I was very much counting on this being the setup for me...
I dont think anyone's got this set up. And there are a ton of variables between here and austrailia. For them to sell it here, it should be tuned here. I hope they are not taking an austrailian tune and trying to install it on american trucks. The note about slow turn around with a tune coming from down under is not good for more than just the time it takes. Test trucks have different parameters from one state to another in the US. The parameters from a AUS jeep to one in the states is going a wider gap to jump.Originally Posted by FieryRobot
I think they will get it sorted out sooner or later, but its going to be the first guys who bought it that give the data required to really sort the tune out here on our atmospheric pressure and the gas we use. (and im sure a lot of other variables)
The OP has this setup and it seems to be working fine. I assumed he was here in the states.
Ahhh, Im corrected. Icheer4beer's got it....But can he confirm its working fine? He is in the states......
Icheer....any idle problems like recently discribed?
How do they diagnose a bad map sensor?
I thought it was a cylinder misfire code, that might not really be a cylinder misfire unless you feel it misfire. When you get that code with no thunk in the engine, its the map sensor.
Is my info all wrong?
A bad map sensor wont recognize the manifold pressure thus not fueling the engine correctly. Im trying to figure out what map sensor every company (ripp magnuson procharger prodigy sprintex) are using its got to be the same between them. From what a local tuner told me ripp used to use mopars srt4 map sensor because its whats called a 3 bar sensor being 3 bar can read negative and positive intake pressure and 2 bar map sensor only reading negative manifold pressure (vacuum)
I'm not sure what it cross references to, but the Sprintex kit uses a Bosch 0 261 230 283. I believe it is a 3 bar, so it may be the same unit.
rgeorge, May I offer an alternative explanation on the "bar" of a MAP sensor? BAR is a metric measure of atmospheric pressure. Simply put, absolute seal level is 1 BAR. As you move up and down in elevation relative to seal level atmospheric pressure changes. It's important to know the pressure in the manifold without regard to outside atmospheric pressure so MAP sensors read "absolute" pressure (not important here). A 1 BAR sensor can read accurately up to 1 BAR or about 14.5 psi at sea level. A 2 BAR sensor can read up to 29 psi and so on. The Bosch code you posted is for a part originally equipped in a Fiat 1.5L trubo. It is quite likely a 2 or 3 bar MAP sensor because it has to read boosted pressure values. All of that said:
If you have an electrical multimeter you can perform some basic tests. There are three pins on the MAP sensor wire harness connector. They are +5 volts, ground, sensor output. Turn the key on to run (don't start the engine). If you set your meter to DC volts you can pin the black meter lead to the ground and you should find one of the other pins with 5v on it. If you can't make a circuit or the voltage is more/less than 5v the the issue is in the harness (look for damaged wiring or bad connector, etc.). If you get 5v then you're good to go. Testing the MAP sensors themselves is a bit harder - you need a vacuum pump. But a simple test is to put 5v and ground to the MAP sensor and read the output. The output should be close to or exactly 5v because there's no vacuum applied to the sensor. If you bench test a MAP sensor and get way less than 5v without vacuum applied, then the sensor is bad. I write all of this because I went through all of this.
I strongly suspect your wiring harness is OK and your MAP sensors (now you have two) are OK. What's not OK is what is happening in the computer when manifold pressure changes and the voltage on the output side of the MAP sensor changes. Now you're in calibration land and the tune file tables need to correctly address what to do with the MAP voltage supplied to the computer.
You might ask one of the other USA sprintex guys to email you their file and send it Mikel at DiabloSport and ask him to compare them side-by side just to make sure they aren't missing something.
I went through a very similar situation, convinced that I had a bad MAP sensor. When installing the MAG S/C I plugged the MAP sensor connector in upside down. The computer threw a bad MAP sensor code. I figured because I put voltage on the wrong terminal the MAP sensor was shot. Magnuson told me that I couldn't have hurt it and to just flip the connector over and try again. I did and got the same result. Magnuson insisted that MAP sensor was OK and my problem was calibration tuning. And they were right. I sent my tune file to Diablo and they reviewed it for me. Diablo spotted the missing fuel table data and and shared that with Magnuson who had their calibration department fix it and email me a new file. Have you asked Diablo to look over your tune file? Mikel at DiabloSport helped me. They won't re-write your tune file but they will critique it to see if it's right. DiabloSport knows exactly what each S/C manufacturer is doing for calibration. If your file differs from Sprintex tunes used here in the US Mikel may be able to spot what's wrong.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Connect With Us