Sprintex 3.6 pentastar install

[Icheer4beer]

I will do it when my son gets home from school and after we upload it I will paste the link.

[rgeorge33]

Are the lights on your dash going crazy? Lightning bolts and what not? I had a bad map sensor once, We were in the rockies in a blizzard when it went. One of the scariest situations ive had in the truck. We had to shut the truck off while driving to get it rebooted. Turned off the ignition at highway speed. Carolina Pete was behind the wheel.

Dont lose heart. Any power mod has hiccups. You are a pioneer on this one, I havent seen one up close yet. What you can at least lean on is that sprintex is a real company, and they cannot afford to have your truck not working. Im confident, they are freaking out to get you sorted. Its going to be hard to sell a lot of these if people are taking them off.

No christmas tree on the dash... The MAP sensor isn't completely non-functioning. It is reading incorrectly, so the incorrect values and scaling could cause the super-rich condition I'm experiencing. I'm waiting patiently for the UPS man to bring the MAP that Gary from Sprintex USA overnighted to me. I should know tonight if this is the magic bullet.

[rgeorge33]

A bad map sensor wont recognize the manifold pressure thus not fueling the engine correctly. Im trying to figure out what map sensor every company (ripp magnuson procharger prodigy sprintex) are using its got to be the same between them. From what a local tuner told me ripp used to use mopars srt4 map sensor because its whats called a 3 bar sensor being 3 bar can read negative and positive intake pressure and 2 bar map sensor only reading negative manifold pressure (vacuum)

I'm not sure what it cross references to, but the Sprintex kit uses a Bosch 0 261 230 283. I believe it is a 3 bar, so it may be the same unit.

[rgeorge33]

How do they diagnose a bad map sensor?

I thought it was a cylinder misfire code, that might not really be a cylinder misfire unless you feel it misfire. When you get that code with no thunk in the engine, its the map sensor.

Is my info all wrong?

We looked at the BARO reading with the key on and engine off, which gave them an idea of the baseline. It wasn't what they expected, so that's the test.

I went through a very similar situation, convinced that I had a bad MAP sensor. When installing the MAG S/C I plugged the MAP sensor connector in upside down. The computer threw a bad MAP sensor code. I figured because I put voltage on the wrong terminal the MAP sensor was shot. Magnuson told me that I couldn't have hurt it and to just flip the connector over and try again. I did and got the same result. Magnuson insisted that MAP sensor was OK and my problem was calibration tuning. And they were right. I sent my tune file to Diablo and they reviewed it for me. Diablo spotted the missing fuel table data and and shared that with Magnuson who had their calibration department fix it and email me a new file. Have you asked Diablo to look over your tune file? Mikel at DiabloSport helped me. They won't re-write your tune file but they will critique it to see if it's right. DiabloSport knows exactly what each S/C manufacturer is doing for calibration. If your file differs from Sprintex tunes used here in the US Mikel may be able to spot what's wrong.

I'm working with Mike Litsch from Diablosport and Gary Turner from Sprintex USA. Both guys seem to be giving my problem honest effort. They've both looked at the variables and both agree that the MAP seems to be the culprit. I'm just frustrated, but these things happen.

Sorry I've been out of the loop. Too many kids. I love my jeep. I have not had any problems since the original install. I had a bad Diablo tuner. Once that was corrected it was up and running quickly. The other issue I had was a misfire when I hadn't informed them of my after market exhaust.

It doesn't like to be driven cold. It surges and sputters. If I let it warm up for a couple of minutes, no problem. Usually once the idle drops to normal.

The jeep is quick. I have 35' on it and the 3.73 axle. I can spin them if I want. Merging is no longer an event.

Best upgrade ever. I can put a video on YouTube tonight of the acceleration if you want.

I appreciate you starting this post and giving a favorable report. It's hopeful for my situation. I'm looking forward to your video when you get a chance to post it. I'll live vicariously through you.

[Icheer4beer]

Here's the link :

[rgeorge33]

Here's the link : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZ9Y...ature=youtu.be

That's awesome! I'm very jealous.

[rgeorge33]

I received the new MAP a little bit ago, and it didn't change anything. I hope Gary and Mike can figure something out tomorrow, because I'm sure they won't mess with it over the weekend.

[FieryRobot]

That's awesome! I'm very jealous.

Seconded!

I received the new MAP a little bit ago, and it didn't change anything. I hope Gary and Mike can figure something out tomorrow, because I'm sure they won't mess with it over the weekend.

Hope so too. No Jeep for a week would make me super grumpy.

[JeepLab]

that video is great. That SC whine is very cool to hear.

Stay positive rgeorge, that scream is in your truck too. Just have to get it sorted out. Once fixed you wont remember any of the current misery.

[gbaumann]

A bad map sensor wont recognize the manifold pressure thus not fueling the engine correctly. Im trying to figure out what map sensor every company (ripp magnuson procharger prodigy sprintex) are using its got to be the same between them. From what a local tuner told me ripp used to use mopars srt4 map sensor because its whats called a 3 bar sensor being 3 bar can read negative and positive intake pressure and 2 bar map sensor only reading negative manifold pressure (vacuum)

rgeorge, May I offer an alternative explanation on the "bar" of a MAP sensor? BAR is a metric measure of atmospheric pressure. Simply put, absolute seal level is 1 BAR. As you move up and down in elevation relative to seal level atmospheric pressure changes. It's important to know the pressure in the manifold without regard to outside atmospheric pressure so MAP sensors read "absolute" pressure (not important here). A 1 BAR sensor can read accurately up to 1 BAR or about 14.5 psi at sea level. A 2 BAR sensor can read up to 29 psi and so on. The Bosch code you posted is for a part originally equipped in a Fiat 1.5L trubo. It is quite likely a 2 or 3 bar MAP sensor because it has to read boosted pressure values. All of that said:

If you have an electrical multimeter you can perform some basic tests. There are three pins on the MAP sensor wire harness connector. They are +5 volts, ground, sensor output. Turn the key on to run (don't start the engine). If you set your meter to DC volts you can pin the black meter lead to the ground and you should find one of the other pins with 5v on it. If you can't make a circuit or the voltage is more/less than 5v the the issue is in the harness (look for damaged wiring or bad connector, etc.). If you get 5v then you're good to go. Testing the MAP sensors themselves is a bit harder - you need a vacuum pump. But a simple test is to put 5v and ground to the MAP sensor and read the output. The output should be close to or exactly 5v because there's no vacuum applied to the sensor. If you bench test a MAP sensor and get way less than 5v without vacuum applied, then the sensor is bad. I write all of this because I went through all of this.

I strongly suspect your wiring harness is OK and your MAP sensors (now you have two) are OK. What's not OK is what is happening in the computer when manifold pressure changes and the voltage on the output side of the MAP sensor changes. Now you're in calibration land and the tune file tables need to correctly address what to do with the MAP voltage supplied to the computer.

You might ask one of the other USA sprintex guys to email you their file and send it Mikel at DiabloSport and ask him to compare them side-by side just to make sure they aren't missing something.