I've known about these guys for a while now. I was introduced to the company by yukon I think. I asked my friend there who they like for drive shafts, when I was doing gears and axles.
I can't swear to it. Im like 78% sure.
Anyhow, ive done a ton of research, and this is one of those companies lead by a guy who is a gear head. Its been open for 20 years, and James has been working on drive shafts for probably 10 years before that.
We are going to drop some new drive shafts in Jesse's Girl and go over the measuring process and install. Then, obviously offroad testing.
This is a really good install video, shout out to JCR offroad for putting it together.
Really well done.
this is the 1310 install, Its not the install we are going to do, as we are putting in the heavier 1350 model, but this install takes out the stock components and the next one im about to post does not. So watch this one first if you are planning to take out your stock drive shafts.
This video will show the components we are going to use. Its the 1350 set up. heavier duty.
Jesse's girl has all yukon components, alloy rear axle, chromoly fronts. If you toughen up the axles, you should go with the tougher drive shaft. Let me tell you why-
The question is, under stress, eventually something will break. Whats that thing going to be? It could be your axle, or your drive shaft....or something more vital in your transfercase or transmission. So if you beef up the axle, you want to beef up the drive shaft appropriately.
Lifted trucks with big tires, will probably need drive shafts before axles. You need them for more than hard wheeling. The angle of your stock drive shaft is not ment to be bent the way we bend them when we put the lifts in these trucks. You can get away with it for a while....more severe with 3" or more lift. But something every lifted jeeper should be aware of.
When you dont want to do it is on the trail in the middle of nowhere. So if you are the type of wheeler who likes to hit the throttle as a solution, you probably want to put this change on your "to do" list.
Im planning on drive shafts. My stocks havent gone yet, but its only a matter of time with this much lift.
I dont wheel hard, but do take a lot of long trips. Last thing you want to do is get stranded somewhere far from home base.
I'm pretty pumped about the whole driveshaft business and working with Adams. I've wheeled the crap out of my 2-door and I'm surprised the driveshafts have held up this long considering the 3.5 inch lift. The front one is starting to leak and I'm not sure I'd take it out again without a tow rig to get her home. That being said, Adam's is going to make sure Jesse's girl doesn't have driveshaft issues for the near future. I"ll put it to the test, but from what I've heard, these will be good-to-go.
Have you seen these things!? Beefy!
I'd like to see some of the build process at adams. If they have any shots or video of that. Im interested.
I dont really need a drive shaft, as im not that high lifted, I would like the extra protection offroad tho. My question is, will my jeep sound different? Ride different? Or you can't tell you changed the shaft until you mash the throttle?
With a top-end driveshaft like Adams, you won't notice a thing when driving. It should handle the tougher geometry of a lifted vehicle without nasty vibrations at speed. You'll also be much less likely to break when off roading...especially with a vehicle that is driven hard, has larger tires that stress the drivetrain, more power, or all of the above. I wheel mine pretty hard and my front shaft is pretty nasty. Its time to make the switch.Originally Posted by FLIPmeOVER
Got my box in the mail with front/rear yokes, parts and bits! Pretty excited for the weekend when I can get the process started.
First things first - I don't have a lift. This job is much easier on a lift, but totally do-able in the garage or driveway if you are patient and have a decent jack and some heavy duty jack stands. Its nice to have the axle off the ground so you can rotate the drive shaft to get to the 5/16 bolts that hold the factory unit on.
Removing the stock drive shaft wouldn't be so bad if it weren't for Jeep's choice to use a bunch of 5/16 bolts to hold it on. The 15mm bolts come right off with an impact. The 8 5/16 bolts would be fine if it weren't for the fact that they put the bolts so close to the inner ring of the flange that you can't get an impact in there. You basically have to use a 3/8 non-impact socket to get in there. I ruined two taking the front and rear shafts off. Way to go Jeep! Either way, the transfer case flanges are being replaced with this beautiful machined parts from Adams:
Check the Adam's flange vs. stock. Which would you prefer?
These are the offending bolts that offer so much of a challenge. Other than these, removing the stock shafts is pretty easy. You can see the limited access you have from below the jeep if you dont' have a lift. Hence why you lift the end you're working on up in the air. its pretty cool to be able to turn both 37s with one hand by rotating the driveshaft.
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