Gears.....Axles.....Drive Shafts....Etc

[Snarf77]

MAN, I'm super jealous! You're going all the way with chromolly shafts too? I just did a ring/pinion change. It won't be as strong as yours after you're done, but I figured I'd replace one when it busts. Maybe I should have done it when i swapped mine out. I just wasn't thinking that far ahead. I went with yukon too, everyone seems to think they are good for the price and my local shop said it is their preferred setup.

With the increased weight of the 37s, I think the gear change was essential. I feel that pulling out in 1st with the 4.10s would have required a bit of feathering while revving the engine more than I'd like. That means more clutch wear and I wanted to avoid that.

Having not driven on the 4.10s with 37s, it is difficult to make a direct comparison. The shop had the axles apart to do the Artec truss setup and when he put it back together he threw in the 4.88s. Pulling out with the 4.88s feels about like the stock 4.10s felt and I didn't mind how low it was geared so it works for me.

Highway driving is perfectly acceptable with the new setup. I haven't re-calibrated my speedometer yet for the new gears/tires, so I can't provide the RPMs at a given speed. But when I get that fixed, I'll know where I'm at and can share.

[Deola]

My dad's is a 13 jku sport auto with an AEV budget boost,285x70xr17, and a ripp supercharger(gen2 tune). With the new tire dad dropped 4.56 gears in. In all honesty the gears made a bigger"knock you back in your seat difference" than the ripp did. My dad only drives the highway maybe once a month for a very short distance. He wanted his jeep to accelerate like a performance vehicle and still be a capable off roader and daily driver. That's exactly what he got, and surprisingly enough his <45 mpg increased. It also helped get the jk into the higher areas of the rpm band so the ripp kicks in sooner after you mash the skinny pedal, instead of the normal wait.