Since the previous few posts didn't have many pictures, here's what it currently looks like under my hood. Feel free to drool
Don't start the engine yet...
Now it's time to double check that everything is connected, fluids are filled, etc.
Then you turn the key on (but don't start), wait a few seconds for the fuel pump to pressurize, then turn the key off. Repeat 2 more times to build up fuel pressure, then go check under the hood for fuel leaks around the fuel-related stuff you messed with.
NOW start the engine! but only let it run for about 10 seconds, stop it, then check for fluid leaks. I also recommend having someone watching and listening to the exhaust joints for exhaust leaks. I had some VERY loud exhaust leaks on my first start. I could also see water sputtering out of the exhaust connections where it was leaking. I quickly learned that I simply needed to tighten those ball joints much more to seal them up.
Now you can start the engine and let it idle for a while, waiting for the cooling fans to turn on (indicating that coolant is up to temp) so that you can shut the engine off again, and top off the radiator. While it's warming up, keep checking for leaks, bad noises (exhaust leaks), etc. The new fuel injectors seem like they might be louder, or I was just paranoid listening for bad sounds. But if you hear ticking sounds, check to see if they are coming from the fuel rail before you worry about it. it will be louder on the passenger side, because there is foam covering the driver side.
Finally, go for a short, gentle test drive to confirm things are working. Check for leaks, etc. again. Don't forget to check the oil feed and drain lines for the turbo.
Once you are satisfied that everything is good, go enjoy it. there is no break-in procedure required for the turbo itself, but Prodigy recommends that you gently work up to full throttle to get used to it. They specifically say light/moderate throttle for the first 50 miles, but I say just go at your own responsible pace. If you have driven powerful vehicles before, then you might only need a couple miles of driving to become accustomed to the throttle behavior.
Keep an eye on your coolant overflow reservoir over the next couple warm up cycles. I had to top mine off twice.
Since the previous few posts didn't have many pictures, here's what it currently looks like under my hood. Feel free to drool
I talked to Prodigy today. They are still testing some ideas for crankcase ventilation, so the stuff I have posted related to crankcase ventilation is likely not final.
Also, they put stage 2 on a dyno recently. Stage 2 is going to blow away the superchargers for sure (at least in the upper RPMs). Can't wait to see JeepLab's dyno chart comparison
Pickles - question for you as I read through your install process and drool over the pictures. Do you think that, after removal of the OEM airbox and install of the cone type filter, that there is room for a winch solenoid box on the firewall side and slightly above the K&N filter?
I've been struggling for months on exactly where to remote mount my winch's solenoid box and have yet to find a solution under the hood. It looks like you may have room in there. It could impede airflow but methinks not!?
Do you know the dimensions of the solenoid box? If so, then I can measure.
Btw. The filter is not a K&N. It's a non branded dry filter. That's just a K&N water repellant pre filter wrap I added as a precaution to protect from water/mud splashing up from below. The bonus side effect is it makes the filter appear to be black and blend in more
I'll have to get some measurements. Its an ENGO unit from my E9000. Its pretty big.. 9 long, 6 deep, maybe 4 tall.
Started a thread on it, a ways back here:
http://jeeplab.com/showthread.php?96...or-2012-owners
There *might* be enough room if you can get creative with a mounting plate/bracket. The air filter is about 4 inches below the top of the, and the compressor outlet of the turbo is about 8 inches away from the side of the engine compartment. I forgot to measure from the fuse box forward to the power steering fluid bottle. There might be enough room there for the length of the box.
I took the stock exhaust pipes and catalytic converters to a scrap yard today. I only got $40 for the cats, and they said the pipes were essentially worthless in that small amount. At least they'll get recycled.
I feel like I got ripped off a bit, but I also didn't want to use more gas driving around to other scrap yards to price-shop. You can't just call around to get values of this stuff. they have to inspect the cats in person. Which means you need to cut the pipes off the catalytic converter section before you take them in so that they can actually visually inspect the catalyst material. A sawzall and an angle grinder got the job done for me.
Speaking of using gas, the best part of the trip was that I traveled 25 miles with less than a gallon of fuel. I reset my dashboard mpg reading before I left my house. When I parked at the scrap yard, it was at 28.0 mpg! It was some unusually gentle driving though, because I had the pipes in the back and didn't want them sliding around.
I'm surprised you didn't get more for the catalytic converters. Beats me! I think I'll keep mine for a while based on your experience. I know you're not supposed to sell them but if a buddy of mine needs one for some reason, I'd rather have mine to give away vice the price of new.
I'm not sure I'm seeing the same MPG increase. If anything I'm about the same so far on the highway. I'll have to do better in calculating the actual MPG but I'm on 37s and 4.88 gears. This would be ridiculously rocket fast if I had the stock rubicon tires or smaller. I just burped the coolant system and getting ready to go fill-er-up with some 93!
I'm very curious to hear if you end up with any MPG gains. I'm still dumb-founded when people say they get MPG gains after adding a turbo. Let's see, put in a device that pumps in more air, so you can dump in more gas to make a bigger explosion in the cylinder... Result... More fuel efficiency... Umm, something seems wrong with this equation. My only explanation is that Prodigy actually did a better job on the computer program than Chrysler did. Ohh, I guess it would help if the Cat converter and other EPA stuff was removed ;-)
Either way, Pickle, that awesome that you're getting 28 MPG (or say 25 MPG if you weren't driving like a grandma.) Right now, with 35" tires, top off and no doors, I'm getting around 15mpg average in city driving. If I go out on the highway, I bump allllll the way up to 16mpg.
2014 Jeep JKU Sahara, Manual - /OlllllllO\ - 4" Metal Cloak lift, 37" Toyo Open Country's on 20" XD Bully Rims, 4.56 Yukon gears, Mopar High Top Fenders, ARB Front Bull Bar Bumper, ARB Rear Bumper, Teraflex HD Tire Carrier, Teraflex Tire Carrier Accessory Mount, Twin Rotopax mount, Hi-Lift Jack mounted on front bumper, Reverse LED work lights, Warn 9.5ti winch, Synergy Drag Link, Trackbar Relocation Bracket, AMP Power Steps, JK1001 Radio, SpiderShade.
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