2014 Jeep JKU Sahara, Manual - /OlllllllO\ - 4" Metal Cloak lift, 37" Toyo Open Country's on 20" XD Bully Rims, 4.56 Yukon gears, Mopar High Top Fenders, ARB Front Bull Bar Bumper, ARB Rear Bumper, Teraflex HD Tire Carrier, Teraflex Tire Carrier Accessory Mount, Twin Rotopax mount, Hi-Lift Jack mounted on front bumper, Reverse LED work lights, Warn 9.5ti winch, Synergy Drag Link, Trackbar Relocation Bracket, AMP Power Steps, JK1001 Radio, SpiderShade.
Close... except not at all. Increased surface area is not the only criteria for cooling more efficiently. A big puffy down jacket uses materials designed to be a great thermal insulator. It fits loosely on your skin, minimizing direct heat transfer from your skin to the jacket. It is thick with a relatively flat/smooth surface, so it has a very low surface-area-to-volume ratio. That means it has a relatively high capacity for storing heat and relatively low ability to transfer heat to surrounding air.
Radiator paint is specifically designed with materials to be a great thermal conductor. Unlike your jacket, it bonds directly to the surface for great heat transfer from the radiator/intercooler into the paint. The paint layer itself is thin (low capacity for storing heat) with a rough textured surface, so it has a very high surface-area-to-volume ratio, greatly increasing the surface area for transferring heat to the surrounding air. It's like covering the entire intercooler with tiny heat sink cooling fins.
Then, as described in the "myth buster" video, the black color emits heat radiation more efficiently. On the flip side, it also absorbs heat radiation more efficiently too. If I had been thinking better at the time, I would have left the back of the intercooler unpainted. The radiator and A/C condenser are right behind the intercooler and are likely to be emitting more heat radiation than the intercooler has to give off, so the intercooler will absorb heat radiation from the back. Leaving the back unpainted would minimize this effect.
2014 Jeep JKU Sahara, Manual - /OlllllllO\ - 4" Metal Cloak lift, 37" Toyo Open Country's on 20" XD Bully Rims, 4.56 Yukon gears, Mopar High Top Fenders, ARB Front Bull Bar Bumper, ARB Rear Bumper, Teraflex HD Tire Carrier, Teraflex Tire Carrier Accessory Mount, Twin Rotopax mount, Hi-Lift Jack mounted on front bumper, Reverse LED work lights, Warn 9.5ti winch, Synergy Drag Link, Trackbar Relocation Bracket, AMP Power Steps, JK1001 Radio, SpiderShade.
Stupid internet and its inability to communicate intent of sarcasm...
I like this visual of typing until fingers fly off: http://www.marketmenot.com/kayak-fin...ff-commercial/
You'd probably be better off contacting Prodigy to get the most recent version of the instructions. I'm sure they've been improved by now. But if you PM your email address to me, I'll send you what I have.
I also need to find some motivation to write up my experience with installing stage 2...
For the intercooler installation, I actually found it easier to get the intercooler solidly mounted, centered, etc., before attaching any of the hoses to it. The instructions have you install the hot-side (turbo-side) hose before bolting the intercooler in place. When following these instructions, I had a very hard time fighting against that hose to get the intercooler centered.
That hose connecting the turbo to the intercooler is in a VERY tight space. Lube up the end of that hose to help it slide onto the intercooler more easily (I used a thin layer of dish soap - harmless, and becomes a bit sticky when dry), and be prepared to test your patience
Finally getting around to documenting the stage 2 upgrade install. I went slightly out of order compared to the official instructions because there were 2 steps that could be conveniently done separately, independent of other steps, and not force you to commit to finishing the complete upgrade. If you want to get a head start on either a stage 2 upgrade, or a complete stage 2 install, you could do these 2 steps as separate complete (relatively quick) projects and still have a fully functioning jeep until you are ready to dive into the rest of the install.
First, I replaced the power steering hose:
Stock hose on top, new hose on the bottom. The solid metal portion of the right end of the stock hose is in the way of the charge air pipe that comes up from the intercooler, to the throttle body.
I succeeded in completing this job without making a mess with power steering fluid! I chose to disconnect the power steering pump side of the hose first (passenger side). First, I used aluminum foil to form a pseudo-funnel to redirect fluid from the bottom of the pump cleanly into a bucket. Once the end of the hose is disconnected, let it drip til it's done.
In the picture above, you can see 2 metal clamps on the original hose. Those are bolted down behind the bottom of the radiator. Once you get the hose out of the engine bay, pry those clamps of and put them on the replacement hose.
Here's a view of the new hose connected to the steering gearbox. This is on the driver side, looking down, radiator fan is to the right. This is right where the stock coolant reservoir sits.
Clamps holding in place behind the radiator:
And the other end connected to the power steering pump:
I needed less than a quart of power steering fluid (ATF-4 trans fluid, as specified by owner's manual) to replace what drained out. Instructions tell you a procedure to follow make sure you get air out of the system.
This is the high pressure side of the system, so it should be quite obvious right away if you have a leak. I had no leaks
EDIT: I did have a leak. Learn from my mistake: http://jeeplab.com/showthread.php?13...ull=1#post3627
Last edited by UselessPickles; 11-22-2014 at 01:26 AM.
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