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  1. #221
    Quote Originally Posted by UselessPickles View Post
    A vacuum leak can cause that code. Double check all hoses that connect to the intake manifold. I really hope you didn't mangle any of the intake manifold gaskets while reinstalling it.
    As instructed i have connected the passenger side pcv to the intake with chk valve pointing towards the intake and the breather to atmosphere. I am sure that I haven't mangel the seal. The O2 sensors the driver side up-stream white and down black and vise versa on passenger side. I have sent PD my back up file and last tune ( they are so helpful) hope to get the right tune. As I stated before that i have another problem cause i have artech reinforcements kit installed and i have almost 3/4 of an inch clearance plus the return line is so close to it. The only way is aether i cut it or buy another branded axel housing.

  2. #222

    Air in coolant!

    As the temperature started dropping with the change from summer to autumn over the past several weeks, I started hearing water "rushing" sounds behind the glovebox every time I started the engine, but only if the engine was cold.

    After letting the engine cool down, I would open the radiator cap and find that it was a bit low on coolant. At first I just tried topping it off and burping air out of the system, but the problem would just come back after the next full warm-up/cool-down cycle.

    I couldn't find any signs of leaking. Scary possibilities started running through my mind, like a slightly failed head gasket either allowing coolant to be burned, or allowing combustion gasses into the coolant.

    The total amount of coolant in the system (including the reservoir) seemed to be stable, so that ruled out leaks and burning of coolant. But somehow air gets into the system. I finally decided to just go through and re-tighten all the heater hose clamps (all connections on the new heater hoses that are part of the turbo kit).

    The water rushing sound diminished with each warm-up/cool-down cycle after this, and was completely gone after about 2-3 days! It's now been several days with no problems. I'm guessing that a combination of cooler weather causing more extreme temperature swings in the rubber hoses, along with the hose developing a "memory" of the clamp compression, caused the connections to loosen up just enough that air could be sucked in past those connections as the coolant cooled down and contracted, but not loose enough to allow coolant to leak out.

    I wonder if it might have been better to use re-use the original spring clamps, which will maintain a steady clamping force even as the hose compresses and develops a "memory". At this point, it's not worth the effort and mess to pull all those hose connections apart and swap clamps. I just hope I don't ever have to re-tighten them again.

  3. #223
    Quote Originally Posted by UselessPickles View Post
    As the temperature started dropping with the change from summer to autumn over the past several weeks, I started hearing water "rushing" sounds behind the glovebox every time I started the engine, but only if the engine was cold.

    After letting the engine cool down, I would open the radiator cap and find that it was a bit low on coolant. At first I just tried topping it off and burping air out of the system, but the problem would just come back after the next full warm-up/cool-down cycle.

    I couldn't find any signs of leaking. Scary possibilities started running through my mind, like a slightly failed head gasket either allowing coolant to be burned, or allowing combustion gasses into the coolant.

    The total amount of coolant in the system (including the reservoir) seemed to be stable, so that ruled out leaks and burning of coolant. But somehow air gets into the system. I finally decided to just go through and re-tighten all the heater hose clamps (all connections on the new heater hoses that are part of the turbo kit).

    The water rushing sound diminished with each warm-up/cool-down cycle after this, and was completely gone after about 2-3 days! It's now been several days with no problems. I'm guessing that a combination of cooler weather causing more extreme temperature swings in the rubber hoses, along with the hose developing a "memory" of the clamp compression, caused the connections to loosen up just enough that air could be sucked in past those connections as the coolant cooled down and contracted, but not loose enough to allow coolant to leak out.

    I wonder if it might have been better to use re-use the original spring clamps, which will maintain a steady clamping force even as the hose compresses and develops a "memory". At this point, it's not worth the effort and mess to pull all those hose connections apart and swap clamps. I just hope I don't ever have to re-tighten them again.
    I have that same sound when the engine is cold and i start up the jeep. Fluid rushing through the hoses.. Only when the engine is cold.. Which hoses did you re-tighten, i will have to do the same.. but im not sure which ones to look for since i did not do the install.. Jeff and you send pics to me or describe which hoses im to look for? thanks!

  4. #224
    It's the two hoses that run up the middle of this picture, connecting to the heater core:




    Just tighten up all the hose clamps related to those two hoses. Snug them up good, but don't over-tighten. You'll know that you over-tightened when the worm gear skips a tooth. If that happens, it's time to get a new clamp, which can be found at any hardware store. Luckily, this style of clamp can be completely opened up to be removed/installed around the hose without disconnecting the hose, so it's not that big of a deal if you have to replace a clamp.

  5. #225
    Quote Originally Posted by UselessPickles View Post
    It's the two hoses that run up the middle of this picture, connecting to the heater core:




    Just tighten up all the hose clamps related to those two hoses. Snug them up good, but don't over-tighten. You'll know that you over-tightened when the worm gear skips a tooth. If that happens, it's time to get a new clamp, which can be found at any hardware store. Luckily, this style of clamp can be completely opened up to be removed/installed around the hose without disconnecting the hose, so it's not that big of a deal if you have to replace a clamp.
    Just checked my clamps..i was able to tighten them 2 rotations.. they were a bit loose. Whats that breather you have hooked up to?

  6. #226
    Good news
    I have done a silly mistake by installing the MAP sesor plug the otherway around. Now everything thing is good. I like it. PD team helped me and i thank them. Thanks to Jeff for giving a guide for trouble shooting. About the water sound behind the dash , i heard it too.

  7. #227
    Senior Member
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    The water sound behind the dash likely has nothing at all to do with the turbo setup. Its been an "issue" Chrysler has been looking at for a while.

  8. #228
    Quote Originally Posted by NOLAjeeper View Post
    Whats that breather you have hooked up to?
    That's the breather for the PCV system, which connects to the driver-side valve cover. This is my own temporary setup because the kit at one point had no solution for filtering the air that gets sucked in there (fresh air enters there to replace the oily air that is sucked through the PCV valve/hose into the intake manifold). Prodigy has since started including a breather filter that fits right into the original hose that used to connect to the air filter box. I hacked up my original hoses/pipes for the PCV system to experiment with some alternative setups. I actually have new replacements on order at a dealer so I can finalize my PCV setup and start using the new breather filter from Prodigy.

    Quote Originally Posted by jeepsking View Post
    Good news
    I have done a silly mistake by installing the MAP sesor plug the otherway around. Now everything thing is good.
    I didn't know there was more than one way that the MAP sensor could physically be hooked up. Please share details of how it can be accidentally hooked up wrong. We'll try not to tease you too much if it was a really stupid mistake

    Quote Originally Posted by jeepsking View Post
    About the water sound behind the dash , i heard it too.
    That's expected right after installing the turbo kit. There's probably air in the system from draining/refilling the cooling system. It should work itself out in a few days. You should check the coolant level in the radiator and the reservoir when the engine is cold and add more coolant if necessary.

    Quote Originally Posted by Snarf77 View Post
    The water sound behind the dash likely has nothing at all to do with the turbo setup.
    In this case for me, it was clearly due to the heater hose connections allowing air into the system. All the clamps were a bit loose (because the hoses had compressed under the clamps over time), and the problem worked itself out after I tightened up all the clamps. I suspect NOLA's water sound issues will now disappear within a couple days. If so, then that's more evidence that the worm-gear clamps are not ideal for this application.

    If you have the water sounds AND no/low heat blowing out of some of the vents, then you have a clogged heater core that needs to be replaced. This is a known issue caused by casting sand leftover in some engine blocks. This is covered under warranty. Another possible cause for this is mixing HOAT and OAT coolant, which turns into very nasty/gooey stuff and would NOT be covered under warranty.

    If you get the water sound with every cold start, but heat works fine... check your coolant level (radiator AND reservoir). Burp air out of the system and top off the radiator.

    If the problem is now permanently fixed, then you just had some stubborn air in the system.

    If the total amount of coolant remains stable after you top it off, but the problem keeps coming back, then air is being introduced into the system somehow every time you drive, so you probably have a slightly loose seal somewhere (in my case, slightly loose hose clamps). Worst case would be a bad head gasket allowing some combustion gasses into the cooling system, but that would likely cause more severe problems.

    If the total amount of coolant is not stable (losing coolant), then you either have a coolant leak somewhere, or a bad head gasket that is allowing coolant into the cylinders, which is being burned off.

  9. #229
    The extension adapter provided by PD for the MAP SENSOR. I am referring to the connection between the extension adapter and the engine harness adapter which can be easily miss installed the slot looks identical either way.


    Ok my impression about the kit:
    It's good but i have an issues regarding the initial pick up. ie: full throttle at low rpm below 2000 will easily lend to a cut off in power theb gradually it starts boosting. Even once it reaches 4500 i can feel a power loss at 3rd gear Jeff can you confirm if it happen to you also since you have a manual transmission.? I used an app called dash command for data logging and discovered that the timing has been set to +12 for most of the rpm's and gears.

    My boost is reading 8.1 psi. I didn't install the AEM WIDE BAND yet so i can't determine the fuel ratio.

  10. #230
    Quote Originally Posted by jeepsking View Post
    i have an issues regarding the initial pick up. ie: full throttle at low rpm below 2000 will easily lend to a cut off in power theb gradually it starts boosting.
    A few possibilities I can think of:

    1) You don't have the latest tune improvements that Jessee and I have been testing. We received the updates as custom tunes. I don't know if the improvements have been pushed out to the official Prodigy tune on Diablosport's servers yet. The latest tune has big improvements in the lower RPM area.

    2) I have found that the turbo does not respond well to sudden full throttle, especially at low rpms. The engine seems to bog down a bit with sudden full throttle. From low rpms, instead of stomping on the throttle, try a smooth transition to full throttle. You can still quickly transition to full throttle, but just don't suddenly stomp on it. At higher rpms (4000+), it will respond more quickly to sudden full throttle, but smooth throttle transitions will always give you the best results because it allows for the turbo to keep up with your demands. I believe this is just a normal characteristic of a relatively large turbo. It doesn't bother me, because I prefer smooth acceleration transitions anyway (your drivetrain probably prefers acceleration transitions as well).

    3) The turbo can't really produce a lot of boost until somewhere above 2500 rpm. 1st gear accelerates quite well below 2500 rpm, but if you are in a higher gear, then you'll always get the best results from downshifting to get rpms above 2500 rpm if you really want to accelerate. That's one way the automatic transmission would be better. If you use a lot of throttle with the auto transmission, it will downshift. The manual transmission gives us the opportunity to be lazy and wish we could just accelerate quickly from lower rpms


    Quote Originally Posted by jeepsking View Post
    Even once it reaches 4500 i can feel a power loss at 3rd gear
    I think I need a more detailed explanation of this to understand it. Are you talking about driving steadily in 3rd gear at 4500 rpm, then stomping on the throttle? If so, then there will be an initial lack of power as the turbo spools up. This is boost lag.


    Quote Originally Posted by jeepsking View Post
    My boost is reading 8.1 psi.
    Now we've got 3 people making about 8.0-8.2 psi boost. Jessee increasingly appears to be the outlier with 9 psi boost! This really makes me want to crank the boost up to 9 psi with a manual boost controller to experience some extra fun

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