...and again, those stupid ads are eating up valuable screen width and forcing my pictures to be so small they are almost useless. There has to be a better way to integrate ads into this forum without squishing the width of the post content like that.
Thanks Pickles
Appreciate the clarity. The arrow on the brass check valve, which direction does it point?
Also on breather side, my last hook up had absolutely no dips and was above oil area. Really bizarre why it blew so much oil, even on low Rpm driving.
The arrow on the brass check valve indicates the direction that the valve will allow air to flow. It should point toward the intake manifold, like the red arrow in my picture. You can even double-check that the arrow on the check valve is correct by trying to suck air through in the indicated direction with your mouth. It might take a bit more force than you expect, so if it seems to not work in either direction, just suck harder
So went ahead and plunged with a catch can arrangement. My guy used a Moroso 84565 CC. He made some custom braided hose and T'd into the bottom oil return line from the turbo. Now the oil returns back to the oil pan. Works great
He also cut about a 1/3 from the check valve spring and added a different O ring. Seems to open better which we thought could be contributing to the boost push of oil. Boost before was coming in about 27-2800 rpm. Now it's coming on around 2200. Feels a load better. I picked up an extra 2mpg on my usual highway route. To early to tell if this was isolated but jeep runs great.
So I did a google search for "Moroso 84565" to find details on your catch can. First 2 results:
"The most beautiful vagina NWS - YellowBullet.com"
"Smart teen pisses off hungry frog?! - Dodge Challenger Forum"
I like the idea of having the oil catch can hooked up to drain to the oil pan like that. No need to check/drain the catch can.
It worries me a bit that there was no obvious problem/cause found that would explain your oily mess. With your catch can arrangement, you might just be masking the underlying problem that is causing excess oil to come through the breather hose.
It also doesn't make sense that any of the changes you described would have any effect on when boost kicks in, unless a boost leak somewhere along the PCV hose was unintentionally fixed while removing/re-installing parts.
It almost sounds like there was something wrong with the check valve or its installation that was allowing boost to flow into the crankcase through the PCV hose. That would explain both a lack of boost and excess oil blowing out of the breather. Did you find something wrong with the check valve? Was it not reliably closing/sealing, or was it installed backward?
Check valve wasn't closing properly. It had a rough movement. We have another one coming just for backup.
Even with the repaired check valve we are still blowing the oil on part load driving. We could not determine any leaks thoughout the PCV system. I didn't ask if my guy smoke tested it but he says it's right now. What's strange is under full hauling ass driving there is almost no oil coming out. I really notice it on highway driving cruising 2200/3000 rpm when the boost comes in and out. This made us believe this was PCV related. You may be right about the repair fixed a small vacuum leak. The catch can sure as hell fixes the oil issue. Check valve was installed correctly originally so it wasn't backards. What I'm curious if the spring is weakened more will it bring on boost quicker?
I can only hope there is no other underlying issue. It sure drives great now so who knows.
** note to googlers. Must add catch can to Moroso 84565 search unless your into Asian porn.
Pickles, Dan caught this before you when I was telling him about the mod. LOl
That makes sense. If it wasn't *closing* properly, then it would allow boost to blow through the crankcase and out the breather. This would also essentially behave like a boost leak, causing boost to take longer and require higher rpms to build up. Sounds like that was the root problem.Originally Posted by Bkeef
No. The spring holds the check valve closed, and a closed check valve is what is necessary to avoid a boost leak into the crankcase. Weakening the spring would make it open more easily, which may allow the PCV system to operate more efficiently at part throttle cruising, but would have no effect on performance at higher engine loads... unless it is weakened so much that it doesn't reliably close, and that would bring you back to the same problem you just solved.
One attribute of check valves is "cracking pressure"... the amount of pressure required to "crack" the valve open. The best option for this application would be a zero cracking pressure valve. It would basically behave as if it didn't exist at all any time there was no boost, and the PCV system would work exactly as originally designed. As soon as manifold pressure crossed into the positive boost range, the valve would close and prevent boost from entering the crank case.
The check valve in the turbo kit seems to require quite a bit of pressure to crack it open. That means that at certain engine loads when the stock PCV valve would normally allow manifold vacuum to suck some air from the crankcase, the check valve is actually staying closed and preventing airflow through the crankcase. I'm thinking of replacing it with a valve that has a low cracking pressure (0.3 psi). That's the lowest cracking pressure I was able to find for a check valve that is the right size, etc. Dan at Prodigy was not able to obtain the specs for the check valve they use, so I'm not even certain that my replacement would be an improvement.
Cracking pressure is 1 psi. I have the specs. Let me know if you need more details and I can PM.
** What oil are you guys running in your Prodigy/Jeep?
Last edited by Bkeef; 02-06-2015 at 01:59 PM.
In that case, I'll probably go ahead and order part# 7775K13 from McMaster Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/506/=vsm98h (in the "Quick-Opening Brass Check Valves" section). 0.3 psi seems much better than 1 psi.
I'm using Mobile 1, 5w20l. It's quite affordable at Walmart. They sell 5 qt containers, so I buy one of those and a 1 qt bottle each time.
OK
For some reason my guys used 5w30 synthetic which is like apple juice. That could have contributed to my oil issues.....
So confirming now it takes almost 6 quarts with the turbo? I don't change my oil but was just curious.
BK
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