Adams Offroad Drive Shafts

[Snarf77]

There is just enough room above the skid to get a torque wrench in from the side to tighten the flange at the transfer case to spec at 160 ft/lbs. They used an extension in the video above. Extensions can affect the torque wrench's settings but I don't think these are critical to have to exacting specs. You use red loc-tite and RTV on the bolt anyway. Shouldn't go anywhere.

[Snarf77]

So HERE IS WHERE YOU HAVE TO PAY ATTENTION if you're doing this yourself, please make 100% sure you understand how to tighten the front pinion yoke and how tight it SHOULD be. There is a gauge for determining exactly how to do this correctly, but its a good chance you don't have it and neither do your friends. Best advice I can share is what I got from Adams. With the front wheels off the ground, feel the tightness/movement of the stock part and then attempt to achieve that when you install the front yoke. Highly scientific right?! Seriously - that is the best method short of having a gauge.

Over tightening the yoke can cause the pinion bearings to fail prematurely - we don't want that now do we? So don't over-tighten. But don't under-tighten.

By the way, I really like their website instructions, even more than the video. It goes into much more depth on the how-to and warnings of what not to do. You just have to translate the process to your specific application. For instance, I used the "Rear JK Install" process for the front of my 1350 parts as they are the same.

http://www.adamsdriveshaftoffroad.com/rear-jk-install/

[Snarf77]

Guessss what came in the mail! These things are heavy, well built, and packaged well. They even wrapped up the u-joint caps with electrical tape to prevent any damage in shipping. Very high speed.

[Pznivy]

Very high speed.

What is high speed? The drive shafts? or the shipping?

[Snarf77]

What is high speed? The drive shafts? or the shipping?

Just a colloquialism. What I meant was that they're pretty frickin nice! Shipping was to be expected across the country covered in winter storms. I think 5 business days.

[Snarf77]

Since I already have the yokes and flanges installed, the remainder of the installation consists of four bolts at each side of the transfer case and some u-bolts around the u-bolt caps. You start at the transfer case bolts. Now these shafts are heavy as can be. When you have a lift, you can sort of rest the shaft on your shoulder or arm and fiddle with starting a bolt. I don't have a lift of course, so I thought I'd share a couple install tips for the person working alone, and for those without three arms.

Its a pain to hold the shaft up, while rotating it, while gingerly trying to start a bolt. I form a loop with some heavy zip ties, and slide the yoke side of the shaft through it before fiddling with the bolts at the transfer case. This takes about 30% of the weight out of your hand and keeps the shaft closer to level when you install the bolts. Seems silly but it works:





The 12mm 12-point bolts that go into the transfer case flange require a drop or two of red lock-tite. I recommend two things. On the first two bolts, just get the bolts a few threads into the flange. This simply hangs the driveshaft in place so you can rotate it and get to the others with the shaft very close to where it needs to be. So add your red drops to the remaining two bolts and get them tight. Then rotate the shaft removing the first two one at a time, add the lock-tite and reinstall to get tight. This works out well. Then tighten them each down as required.

[Snarf77]

Anyway - After your four bolts are snug, the process is pretty simple to finish the install. Pull the electrical tape off the U-joint caps, rotate the shaft until it lines up with the front yoke, and extend the driveshaft until it rests on the small lip in the yoke. Once it is set in place, it is no trouble to install the u-bolt and 9/16 nuts and lock washers. Adam's doesn't really tell you how tight to tighten these, only offering that it is easy to over tighten, screwing up your u-joint. I put a tiny drop of lock tite on them and did them hand tight. You can only fit a box wrench on here so it would take some effort I think, to really over tighten, crushing the cap.

[Snarf77]

Just helping the world out.... I cannot help it you bought a Yukon Gear Set. Hopefully Adams is better.

LOL. I'm 100% sure you've never had a yukon gear fail on you.

These Adam's shafts are american made monsters and Adam's has been around for decades. These are the 1350 rock crawlers with solid spicer u-joints. 2.5 x .095wall rear, and 2 x .120 wall front, both with lifetime warranties. I could imagine my jeep crumbling around them before they break. I was terrified that one was going to slip from my hand during the install and knock me out cold.

They only think I'm upset about is that I didn't get the friggin t-shirt with my order! Totally going to call them on that.

[Timmy]

These Adam's shafts are american made monsters and Adam's has been around for decades.

Shafts look good, nice job on the install! Your front shaft looks identical to the 1350 I added to mine. Mine has been running flawlessly with my 4" lift for a while now. No more destroying the boot from the sharp angle that the 4" lift creates. I didn't replace my rear shaft because it already sits incredibly straight, so I figured, why replace it if it doesn't appear to be wearing out. Of course, if the boot on that shows any sign of wear, you can be sure I'll replace it ASAP.

Thanks for the picks and great write-up.

[Snarf77]

So I'm about 40 miles of driving the Adam's shafts and already thinking towards regular maintenance. They come fitted with zerks and were well greased from the factory. How often are you guys greasing your shafts?