This should be an interesting first post... My Prodigy Performance Stage 2 kit with Precision Turbo just arrived today. Should be going on this weekend. I've been lurking in the shadows for some time now and figured I should make an account.
This should be an interesting first post... My Prodigy Performance Stage 2 kit with Precision Turbo just arrived today. Should be going on this weekend. I've been lurking in the shadows for some time now and figured I should make an account.
Lucky! You'll be the first to provide consumer feedback on the forums about the Precision. Can't wait to hear about it.
Mine should arrive this weekend, but I won't be able to install until the following weekend (June 28).
Just don't rush, double check everything, and don't assume everything will naturally fall into perfect position without some thought and deliberate effort. Especially all the exhaust pipes.
That's one thing I'm still planning to improve upon while I'm swapping my new turbo in. My air filter currently contacts the plastic wheel well liner. I need to loosen everything up and focus on getting the turbo into perfect position. I think the key to this will be to pre-fit the turbo (with air filter installed) to the downpipe (not connected to anything else) and focus on getting the downpipe oriented perfectly to set the position of the turbo. I think the downpipe mounting brackets should be the first thing to be tightened up and locked into final position.
Pay special attention to routing of various hoses and O2 sensor wires, use zip-ties as necessary to hold things in position to avoid rubbing between hoses and other components. The install instructions don't specify exact routing.
And when trimming the radiator core support to make room for the intercooler hoses, put in the extra effort to test fit the hoses then trim more plastic if necessary to avoid direct contact between the hose and the plastic if possible. That's the other thing I plan on improving with my install during the turbo swap, because my intercooler hoses are pressed firmly against the trimmed plastic right now.
Speaking of the intercooler, I found it much easier to get the intercooler centered and firmly mounted first, THEN attach the passenger side hose to it. This approach is also necessary if you want to properly test fit the hoses to the trimmed plastic. Following the install instructions exactly makes it a bit easier to get the hose attached, but makes it more difficult to get the intercooler centered. Be ready to pop the grill on and off several times as you make small adjustments to get the intercooler perfectly positioned (unless you don't care about perfection). The mounting brackets for the intercooler are flexible and can be bent for more fine tuning of the location/orientation of the intercooler.
Good luck!
Awesome, thank you. I plan on going slow and steady. I'm concerned with getting my old exhaust off. I figured the bolts are going to be a pain. I also have to figure something out with the return to the oil pan because of my skid plate system. I'm also expecting some interference with the new exhaust routing because of the plates as well. We shall see...
Get some PB Blaster and pre-soak all the exhaust bolts first thing on the day of the install. Have a sawz-all or other cutting tool handy just in case. I gave up and just cut through one of my stock exhaust bolts. Some of the bolts holding the exhaust to the engine head are a pain to get to. Hope you have small hands and patience Then getting the stock catalytic converters out is like a brain teaser puzzle. Maybe it's easier if you can have the Jeep up on a lift, but I did it all laying on my back under the jeep with the front end on jackstands giving me just a bit of extra room to work.
Is anybody having a squeeling noise on there 3.6? i just did my water pump and the squeel is back again im getting really sick of the noise
Look what FedEx brought me today!
click for full size
click for full size
The registration card indicates that the model number is "5862SP"
First 2 digits are the compressor wheel inducer diameter: 58mm
next 2 digits are the turbine wheel exducer diameter: 62mm
The "SP" just indicates the compressor housing type: "S" style (4" inlet, 2.5" outlet), "P" for ported (anti-surge porting)
This has the T4 tangential .58 A/R turbine housing.
Here's the product page for the 5862 turbo: http://www.precisionturbo.net/produc...2-CEA-reg-/233
Both the compressor and turbine wheels are machined from solid pieces of metal. The compressor wheel is machined from a block of forged aluminum. As far as I know, the Garrett turbo has standard cast compressor and turbine wheels. Here's Precision's marketing about their machined wheels:
Compressor wheel: http://www.precisionturbo.net/tech/C...ssor-Wheels/37
Turbine wheel: http://www.precisionturbo.net/tech/C...bine-Wheels/41
Here's a closeup of my compressor wheel. The machining marks are visible:
click for full size
I can't see any machining marks on the turbine wheel, so maybe the turbine wheels are put through some smoothing/finishing process, or maybe the machining of the compressor wheels is intentionally more coarse for some aerodynamics reason? I did find some pics of Precision's old vs new turbine wheels and confirmed that mine definitely appears to be the newer "CEA" turbine wheel.
This should probably be a new thread. Seems quite unrelated to the new Precision turbo. But, no, I don't have an annoying squealing noise.
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