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  1. #31
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    425
    Quote Originally Posted by UselessPickles View Post
    Some new details about the Precision turbo...

    • It's a $495 upgrade option at the time of purchase of a turbo kit.
    • If you already have a turbo kit with the Garrett, it costs $1350 to purchase the Precision turbo by itself.
    • Unlike the Garrett, the anti-surge porting on the Precision is not optional for the sake of appearances only. It's actually required to avoid compressor surge at lower engine speeds (see holes all around the compressor inlet in the picture I posted earlier).
    • Prodigy reports that you really feel the Precision "kick in" at about 2000 rpm, compared to the Garrett having a similar feeling at about 3000 rpm. Note that this does not indicate where the turbo starts making max/target boost. In a 2nd gear acceleration, my data logs show target boost with the Garrett at about 4000 rpm: http://www.uselesspickles.com/files/...ar_update2.png. The quick increase in acceleration as boost quickly ramps up is what you really notice/"feel". Since the Precision should spool up more quickly (in addition to at lower rpm) than the Garrett, I'm predicting full/target boost around 2500 rpm in a 2nd gear acceleration.
    • Prodigy reports that the Precision makes similar peak power in the upper rpm range as the Garrett (about 370 whp +/-). So quicker spooling, more boost/torque/acceleration at lower rpms, without sacrificing the high rpm rush.


    And the most exciting piece of info about the Precision turbo: I decided to take one for the team, bite the expensive bullet, and order one to experience for myself. When it arrives, I'll start a new thread and post pictures I'll take some side-by-side comparison pics of the Garrett vs Precision when I do the install. One of the first things I'll do after the install is create a new 2nd gear acceleration boost chart so we can see exactly how much sooner/quicker the Precision really spools up.
    I'm sure I'll need one shortly thereafter. If you can "feel" the boost hitting at least 500rpm lower, then its likely a worthwhile investment.

  2. #32
    This should be an interesting first post... My Prodigy Performance Stage 2 kit with Precision Turbo just arrived today. Should be going on this weekend. I've been lurking in the shadows for some time now and figured I should make an account.

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by MatthewLee View Post
    This should be an interesting first post... My Prodigy Performance Stage 2 kit with Precision Turbo just arrived today. Should be going on this weekend. I've been lurking in the shadows for some time now and figured I should make an account.
    Welcome!

    Please give us some pics of your install!

  4. #34
    Lucky! You'll be the first to provide consumer feedback on the forums about the Precision. Can't wait to hear about it.

    Mine should arrive this weekend, but I won't be able to install until the following weekend (June 28).

  5. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by JeepLab View Post
    Welcome!

    Please give us some pics of your install!
    I'm doing everything Saturday. I'll send some unboxing pictures tonight when I get it to the shop. I've reviewed the installation procedure and pickles install thread. Is there anything I should be particularly aware of?

  6. #36
    Just don't rush, double check everything, and don't assume everything will naturally fall into perfect position without some thought and deliberate effort. Especially all the exhaust pipes.

    That's one thing I'm still planning to improve upon while I'm swapping my new turbo in. My air filter currently contacts the plastic wheel well liner. I need to loosen everything up and focus on getting the turbo into perfect position. I think the key to this will be to pre-fit the turbo (with air filter installed) to the downpipe (not connected to anything else) and focus on getting the downpipe oriented perfectly to set the position of the turbo. I think the downpipe mounting brackets should be the first thing to be tightened up and locked into final position.

    Pay special attention to routing of various hoses and O2 sensor wires, use zip-ties as necessary to hold things in position to avoid rubbing between hoses and other components. The install instructions don't specify exact routing.

    And when trimming the radiator core support to make room for the intercooler hoses, put in the extra effort to test fit the hoses then trim more plastic if necessary to avoid direct contact between the hose and the plastic if possible. That's the other thing I plan on improving with my install during the turbo swap, because my intercooler hoses are pressed firmly against the trimmed plastic right now.

    Speaking of the intercooler, I found it much easier to get the intercooler centered and firmly mounted first, THEN attach the passenger side hose to it. This approach is also necessary if you want to properly test fit the hoses to the trimmed plastic. Following the install instructions exactly makes it a bit easier to get the hose attached, but makes it more difficult to get the intercooler centered. Be ready to pop the grill on and off several times as you make small adjustments to get the intercooler perfectly positioned (unless you don't care about perfection). The mounting brackets for the intercooler are flexible and can be bent for more fine tuning of the location/orientation of the intercooler.

    Good luck!

  7. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by UselessPickles View Post
    Just don't rush, double check everything, and don't assume everything will naturally fall into perfect position without some thought and deliberate effort. Especially all the exhaust pipes.

    That's one thing I'm still planning to improve upon while I'm swapping my new turbo in. My air filter currently contacts the plastic wheel well liner. I need to loosen everything up and focus on getting the turbo into perfect position. I think the key to this will be to pre-fit the turbo (with air filter installed) to the downpipe (not connected to anything else) and focus on getting the downpipe oriented perfectly to set the position of the turbo. I think the downpipe mounting brackets should be the first thing to be tightened up and locked into final position.

    Pay special attention to routing of various hoses and O2 sensor wires, use zip-ties as necessary to hold things in position to avoid rubbing between hoses and other components. The install instructions don't specify exact routing.

    And when trimming the radiator core support to make room for the intercooler hoses, put in the extra effort to test fit the hoses then trim more plastic if necessary to avoid direct contact between the hose and the plastic if possible. That's the other thing I plan on improving with my install during the turbo swap, because my intercooler hoses are pressed firmly against the trimmed plastic right now.

    Speaking of the intercooler, I found it much easier to get the intercooler centered and firmly mounted first, THEN attach the passenger side hose to it. This approach is also necessary if you want to properly test fit the hoses to the trimmed plastic. Following the install instructions exactly makes it a bit easier to get the hose attached, but makes it more difficult to get the intercooler centered. Be ready to pop the grill on and off several times as you make small adjustments to get the intercooler perfectly positioned (unless you don't care about perfection). The mounting brackets for the intercooler are flexible and can be bent for more fine tuning of the location/orientation of the intercooler.

    Good luck!
    Awesome, thank you. I plan on going slow and steady. I'm concerned with getting my old exhaust off. I figured the bolts are going to be a pain. I also have to figure something out with the return to the oil pan because of my skid plate system. I'm also expecting some interference with the new exhaust routing because of the plates as well. We shall see...

  8. #38
    Get some PB Blaster and pre-soak all the exhaust bolts first thing on the day of the install. Have a sawz-all or other cutting tool handy just in case. I gave up and just cut through one of my stock exhaust bolts. Some of the bolts holding the exhaust to the engine head are a pain to get to. Hope you have small hands and patience Then getting the stock catalytic converters out is like a brain teaser puzzle. Maybe it's easier if you can have the Jeep up on a lift, but I did it all laying on my back under the jeep with the front end on jackstands giving me just a bit of extra room to work.

  9. #39

    Another Turbo Option from Prodigy Performance?

    Is anybody having a squeeling noise on there 3.6? i just did my water pump and the squeel is back again im getting really sick of the noise

  10. #40
    Look what FedEx brought me today!

    click for full size


    click for full size



    The registration card indicates that the model number is "5862SP"

    First 2 digits are the compressor wheel inducer diameter: 58mm
    next 2 digits are the turbine wheel exducer diameter: 62mm
    The "SP" just indicates the compressor housing type: "S" style (4" inlet, 2.5" outlet), "P" for ported (anti-surge porting)

    This has the T4 tangential .58 A/R turbine housing.

    Here's the product page for the 5862 turbo: http://www.precisionturbo.net/produc...2-CEA-reg-/233


    Both the compressor and turbine wheels are machined from solid pieces of metal. The compressor wheel is machined from a block of forged aluminum. As far as I know, the Garrett turbo has standard cast compressor and turbine wheels. Here's Precision's marketing about their machined wheels:

    Compressor wheel: http://www.precisionturbo.net/tech/C...ssor-Wheels/37
    Turbine wheel: http://www.precisionturbo.net/tech/C...bine-Wheels/41

    Here's a closeup of my compressor wheel. The machining marks are visible:

    click for full size



    I can't see any machining marks on the turbine wheel, so maybe the turbine wheels are put through some smoothing/finishing process, or maybe the machining of the compressor wheels is intentionally more coarse for some aerodynamics reason? I did find some pics of Precision's old vs new turbine wheels and confirmed that mine definitely appears to be the newer "CEA" turbine wheel.


    Quote Originally Posted by 2k13jk View Post
    Is anybody having a squeeling noise on there 3.6? i just did my water pump and the squeel is back again im getting really sick of the noise
    This should probably be a new thread. Seems quite unrelated to the new Precision turbo. But, no, I don't have an annoying squealing noise.

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