Adams Offroad Drive Shafts

I've known about these guys for a while now. I was introduced to the company by yukon I think. I asked my friend there who they like for drive shafts, when I was doing gears and axles.

I can't swear to it. Im like 78% sure.

Anyhow, ive done a ton of research, and this is one of those companies lead by a guy who is a gear head. Its been open for 20 years, and James has been working on drive shafts for probably 10 years before that.

We are going to drop some new drive shafts in Jesse's Girl and go over the measuring process and install. Then, obviously offroad testing.

This is a really good install video, shout out to JCR offroad for putting it together.

Really well done.

this is the 1310 install, Its not the install we are going to do, as we are putting in the heavier 1350 model, but this install takes out the stock components and the next one im about to post does not. So watch this one first if you are planning to take out your stock drive shafts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I6PjDTLCQ3M

This video will show the components we are going to use. Its the 1350 set up. heavier duty.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJcXlkEWv_I

Jesse's girl has all yukon components, alloy rear axle, chromoly fronts. If you toughen up the axles, you should go with the tougher drive shaft. Let me tell you why-

The question is, under stress, eventually something will break. Whats that thing going to be? It could be your axle, or your drive shaft....or something more vital in your transfercase or transmission. So if you beef up the axle, you want to beef up the drive shaft appropriately.

Lifted trucks with big tires, will probably need drive shafts before axles. You need them for more than hard wheeling. The angle of your stock drive shaft is not ment to be bent the way we bend them when we put the lifts in these trucks. You can get away with it for a while....more severe with 3" or more lift. But something every lifted jeeper should be aware of.

When you dont want to do it is on the trail in the middle of nowhere. So if you are the type of wheeler who likes to hit the throttle as a solution, you probably want to put this change on your "to do" list.

Im planning on drive shafts. My stocks havent gone yet, but its only a matter of time with this much lift.

I dont wheel hard, but do take a lot of long trips. Last thing you want to do is get stranded somewhere far from home base.

I'm pretty pumped about the whole driveshaft business and working with Adams. I've wheeled the crap out of my 2-door and I'm surprised the driveshafts have held up this long considering the 3.5 inch lift. The front one is starting to leak and I'm not sure I'd take it out again without a tow rig to get her home. That being said, Adam's is going to make sure Jesse's girl doesn't have driveshaft issues for the near future. I"ll put it to the test, but from what I've heard, these will be good-to-go.

Have you seen these things!? Beefy!

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I'd like to see some of the build process at adams. If they have any shots or video of that. Im interested.

I dont really need a drive shaft, as im not that high lifted, I would like the extra protection offroad tho. My question is, will my jeep sound different? Ride different? Or you can't tell you changed the shaft until you mash the throttle?

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Originally Posted by FLIPmeOVER

I'd like to see some of the build process at adams. If they have any shots or video of that. Im interested.

I dont really need a drive shaft, as im not that high lifted, I would like the extra protection offroad tho. My question is, will my jeep sound different? Ride different? Or you can't tell you changed the shaft until you mash the throttle?

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With a top-end driveshaft like Adams, you won't notice a thing when driving. It should handle the tougher geometry of a lifted vehicle without nasty vibrations at speed. You'll also be much less likely to break when off roading...especially with a vehicle that is driven hard, has larger tires that stress the drivetrain, more power, or all of the above. I wheel mine pretty hard and my front shaft is pretty nasty. Its time to make the switch.

Got my box in the mail with front/rear yokes, parts and bits! Pretty excited for the weekend when I can get the process started.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7337/...44cd2752_z.jpg

First things first - I don't have a lift. This job is much easier on a lift, but totally do-able in the garage or driveway if you are patient and have a decent jack and some heavy duty jack stands. Its nice to have the axle off the ground so you can rotate the drive shaft to get to the 5/16 bolts that hold the factory unit on.

Removing the stock drive shaft wouldn't be so bad if it weren't for Jeep's choice to use a bunch of 5/16 bolts to hold it on. The 15mm bolts come right off with an impact. The 8 5/16 bolts would be fine if it weren't for the fact that they put the bolts so close to the inner ring of the flange that you can't get an impact in there. You basically have to use a 3/8 non-impact socket to get in there. I ruined two taking the front and rear shafts off. Way to go Jeep! Either way, the transfer case flanges are being replaced with this beautiful machined parts from Adams:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8603/...4ed9ba56_z.jpg

Check the Adam's flange vs. stock. Which would you prefer?

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7295/...06f49f8d_z.jpg

These are the offending bolts that offer so much of a challenge. Other than these, removing the stock shafts is pretty easy. You can see the limited access you have from below the jeep if you dont' have a lift. Hence why you lift the end you're working on up in the air. its pretty cool to be able to turn both 37s with one hand by rotating the driveshaft.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8648/...7501dca0_z.jpg

There is just enough room above the skid to get a torque wrench in from the side to tighten the flange at the transfer case to spec at 160 ft/lbs. They used an extension in the video above. Extensions can affect the torque wrench's settings but I don't think these are critical to have to exacting specs. You use red loc-tite and RTV on the bolt anyway. Shouldn't go anywhere.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8636/...02642f0f_z.jpg

So HERE IS WHERE YOU HAVE TO PAY ATTENTION if you're doing this yourself, please make 100% sure you understand how to tighten the front pinion yoke and how tight it SHOULD be. There is a gauge for determining exactly how to do this correctly, but its a good chance you don't have it and neither do your friends. Best advice I can share is what I got from Adams. With the front wheels off the ground, feel the tightness/movement of the stock part and then attempt to achieve that when you install the front yoke. Highly scientific right?! Seriously - that is the best method short of having a gauge.

Over tightening the yoke can cause the pinion bearings to fail prematurely - we don't want that now do we? So don't over-tighten. But don't under-tighten.

By the way, I really like their website instructions, even more than the video. It goes into much more depth on the how-to and warnings of what not to do. You just have to translate the process to your specific application. For instance, I used the "Rear JK Install" process for the front of my 1350 parts as they are the same.

http://www.adamsdriveshaftoffroad.com/rear-jk-install/

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7409/...f4bd166a_z.jpg

Guessss what came in the mail! These things are heavy, well built, and packaged well. They even wrapped up the u-joint caps with electrical tape to prevent any damage in shipping. Very high speed.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8643/...8f1144c3_z.jpg

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Originally Posted by Snarf77

Very high speed.

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What is high speed? The drive shafts? or the shipping?

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Originally Posted by Pznivy

What is high speed? The drive shafts? or the shipping?

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Just a colloquialism. What I meant was that they're pretty frickin nice! Shipping was to be expected across the country covered in winter storms. I think 5 business days.

Since I already have the yokes and flanges installed, the remainder of the installation consists of four bolts at each side of the transfer case and some u-bolts around the u-bolt caps. You start at the transfer case bolts. Now these shafts are heavy as can be. When you have a lift, you can sort of rest the shaft on your shoulder or arm and fiddle with starting a bolt. I don't have a lift of course, so I thought I'd share a couple install tips for the person working alone, and for those without three arms.

Its a pain to hold the shaft up, while rotating it, while gingerly trying to start a bolt. I form a loop with some heavy zip ties, and slide the yoke side of the shaft through it before fiddling with the bolts at the transfer case. This takes about 30% of the weight out of your hand and keeps the shaft closer to level when you install the bolts. Seems silly but it works:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8646/...a53b8a9b_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8581/...84d9384b_z.jpg

The 12mm 12-point bolts that go into the transfer case flange require a drop or two of red lock-tite. I recommend two things. On the first two bolts, just get the bolts a few threads into the flange. This simply hangs the driveshaft in place so you can rotate it and get to the others with the shaft very close to where it needs to be. So add your red drops to the remaining two bolts and get them tight. Then rotate the shaft removing the first two one at a time, add the lock-tite and reinstall to get tight. This works out well. Then tighten them each down as required.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8584/...eaf4d6bd_z.jpg

Anyway - After your four bolts are snug, the process is pretty simple to finish the install. Pull the electrical tape off the U-joint caps, rotate the shaft until it lines up with the front yoke, and extend the driveshaft until it rests on the small lip in the yoke. Once it is set in place, it is no trouble to install the u-bolt and 9/16 nuts and lock washers. Adam's doesn't really tell you how tight to tighten these, only offering that it is easy to over tighten, screwing up your u-joint. I put a tiny drop of lock tite on them and did them hand tight. You can only fit a box wrench on here so it would take some effort I think, to really over tighten, crushing the cap.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8575/...a6314e92_z.jpg

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Originally Posted by KaiserBill

Just helping the world out.... I cannot help it you bought a Yukon Gear Set. Hopefully Adams is better.

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LOL. I'm 100% sure you've never had a yukon gear fail on you.

These Adam's shafts are american made monsters and Adam's has been around for decades. These are the 1350 rock crawlers with solid spicer u-joints. 2.5 x .095wall rear, and 2 x .120 wall front, both with lifetime warranties. I could imagine my jeep crumbling around them before they break. I was terrified that one was going to slip from my hand during the install and knock me out cold.

They only think I'm upset about is that I didn't get the friggin t-shirt with my order! Totally going to call them on that.


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Originally Posted by Snarf77

These Adam's shafts are american made monsters and Adam's has been around for decades.

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Shafts look good, nice job on the install! Your front shaft looks identical to the 1350 I added to mine. Mine has been running flawlessly with my 4" lift for a while now. No more destroying the boot from the sharp angle that the 4" lift creates. I didn't replace my rear shaft because it already sits incredibly straight, so I figured, why replace it if it doesn't appear to be wearing out. Of course, if the boot on that shows any sign of wear, you can be sure I'll replace it ASAP.

Thanks for the picks and great write-up.

So I'm about 40 miles of driving the Adam's shafts and already thinking towards regular maintenance. They come fitted with zerks and were well greased from the factory. How often are you guys greasing your shafts?

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Originally Posted by Snarf77

So I'm about 40 miles of driving the Adam's shafts and already thinking towards regular maintenance. They come fitted with zerks and were well greased from the factory. How often are you guys greasing your shafts?

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Well that will depend on the type of usage and driving conditions you have. But I grease mine about once every 3 months.

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Originally Posted by Snarf77

How often are you guys greasing your shafts?

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Depends on how often my wife has a headache.

****MODERATED****

This thread was spiraling out of control with a number of posts that had nothing to do with driveshafts.

I moved all that yap to the Yoinkers thread -

http://jeeplab.com/showthread.php?23...u-re-funny-guy

Im all for an open forum, I dont want to control it, Let the opinions fly. BUT we as a group are here share info on mods for guys before they spend their own money and time. I didnt want the information in this thread lost in a sea of back and forth over things off the subject.

GAME ON!

So does the rig feel any different? those shafts are heavier than normal, does your truck feel the extra weight?

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Originally Posted by FLIPmeOVER

So does the rig feel any different? those shafts are heavier than normal, does your truck feel the extra weight?

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I'm not sure about Snarf, but my 1350 shaft did not make a single difference on how the Jeep drives. You would never have guessed that anything changed (well, minus the fact that it got rid of the horrible sound of my old front drive shaft boot slapping against my exhaust as it was getting ripped apart.)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FLIPmeOVER

So does the rig feel any different? those shafts are heavier than normal, does your truck feel the extra weight?

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Absolutely ZERO difference in driveability around town. Zero noises, zero shimmy, zero drama. That's in 2wd and 4wd/hi/lo in the snow. No vibrations (had her up to about 80) in any way. I'm crawling under tomorrow to re-check the nuts/bolts but I think I'm good to go otherwise. I'll keep this updated as I take her off road for real..see how she does under flex. I really can't imagine anything will happen. I'm just thrilled I no longer have to worry about my stock shaft exploding due to my lift and hard wheeling.

Spent at least 5 hours out driving in the snow yesterday (we got just shy of a foot). Lots of time on hills in 4 low, and side roads in 4 high. Still zero vibrations, noises, or trouble from the driveshafts. I'm comfortable saying that these were a great decision for my Jeep. I look forward to not worrying any more about stock driveshafts exploding while off roading!

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Originally Posted by Snarf77

Spent at least 5 hours out driving in the snow yesterday (we got just shy of a foot). Lots of time on hills in 4 low, and side roads in 4 high. Still zero vibrations, noises, or trouble from the driveshafts. I'm comfortable saying that these were a great decision for my Jeep. I look forward to not worrying any more about stock driveshafts exploding while off roading!

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I started to get a drivetrain vibration yesterday at lunch time. Got back to the office, crawled under the jeep and saw that the four bolts holding the rear 1350 to the transfer case flange were coming loose. I put some good torque on them when I installed them but I think I'll do more this go round! Also, I'm feeling some additional lock-tite is called for! Alls well that ends well but just a heads-up to those installing driveshafts, check the parts daily after you install until you're comfortable that they were tight. I checked mine on days 2 and 3, but it took about 200 miles for me to notice they were coming loose.