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  1. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by UselessPickles View Post
    You make it sound like it's as simple as adjusting some screws and suddenly you have a 400+, or even 800+ hp 4BT.

    I did some browsing around on a couple 4BT forums, and the common relatively easy, affordable mods get you into the low 200 hp range without opening up the engine. Beyond that seems to start requiring serious engine mods (pistons, rods, machining heads, valve springs, aftermarket studs, crankcase bracing, bigger turbo, twin sequential turbos, etc., etc.).

    I've also noticed that the diesels with huge power at the drag strip need to brake-boost for about 5-10 seconds to pre-spool the turbo before fully staging to begin the race. They do the same thing on the dyno too. That leads me to believe that there would be some serious turbo lag during daily driving if you wanted to tap into that big power.

    Yes, a 4BT can make some huge power. But it takes quite a bit of money/work, especially if you want good reliable power. The same can be said for many engines. There's nothing magically secret about diesel for getting more power.

    The Pentastar could likely make some similarly huge power if it was modified to the extent of these huge power small diesels. The stock pentastar already makes quite a bit more power than a stock 4BT. Bolt-on forced induction puts the Pentastar into the power range that the 4BT requires being rebuilt internally to support.

    What the huge power modded diesel gives you though is insane low rpm torque. I know some Jeep people think low rpm torque is all the rage, but I'm pretty sure it would be safe to say that 800+ ft-lbs that requires loading up the engine to spool up the turbo to get there... would just be absolute complete overkill for off road driving in a Wrangler. That kind of torque is what you use for hauling *very* heavy loads. I know it's hard for you to remember, but this is a Wrangler forum. Wrangler's don't weigh as much as your deuce, so they don't need ridiculous amounts of low-end torque just to move around acceptably.

    Final point: if the 4BT is so easy to turn up to 600, 700, 800+ hp as a reliable and good daily driver, and would be amazing in a Wrangler, then why isn't Bruiser doing it? Why does Bruiser only talk about being able to "turn it all the way up" to the 250-300 hp range? Maybe you need to call up Bruiser and let them in on your secrets to more power!
    Simple is relative. You don't make 800hp or even 600hp at the crank shaft without some internal modifications:

    1) Reduce Compression ratio from I believe it is 17:1 possibly 18:1 to 13-14.5:1 ratio (it will be a little harder to start, but still doable.). New pistons about $1000.00 maybe less depending type used.

    2) Blue Print and Port The Engine That has to be done. Depending on how well built your engine is from the factory will determine how much this will set you back but it should be under $3K if you can do most of the work yourself.

    3) Fuel injector pump have it rebuilt so you can get at least 800PSI to the injectors they will do the rest of the work for you. You want high volume and high pressure. So you need to have your injectors blue printed-- depending on the number and specs you have probably set you back with the injector pump another $2000-$2500

    4) Turbos-- You start off with the first stage using the stock 4BT turbo then you put on either a Cummins 8.3 turbo or maybe one from L10 enigne either one will probably be more than enough to get you to the magic boost number of 200+ PSI!!!! Used pull out about $500-$1000-- rebuild kit runs about $250 to $500 depending on requirements.

    5) Intercooler-- Probably air to air you can get one for about $800- $1000.

    6) Water-Methanol System about $950.00

    7) Wrap and insult the exhausts and turbos for each stage as well as the intakes. $500.00


    How do you make the power: Compound (Two Stage) Turbo Charging. You use the smaller 4BT stock unit to as the primary turbo with a by pass value that is boost operated-- it reaches say 24PSI Manifold pressure bam it closes and spools up the bigger C8.3 unit or L10 Unit that then pushes up to the 60-200psi manifold pressure zone.
    Again the price of the final product all depends on your ability to find good prices on things and perform a majority of the work yourself. Otherwise the price goes way up. But, to me this is easy.





    This how Borg-Warner does it. A home-built setup will have more tubing and so on but it will work out the same way. Massive HP!!!!

    Why doesn't Bruiser do it? Simple reliability always suffers with massive hp an torque. They want customers that want novelty but aren't exactly people who fix things on their own. So they keep the HP low and the Torque lower and this makes for greater reliability in all aspects of the vehicle.
    Last edited by KaiserBill; 04-12-2015 at 06:25 PM.

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