Vote for your supercharger of choice

[UselessPickles]

Just got off the phone with Dan Marra of Prodigy. He said I should be able to get by with just taller bump stops if I am not doing serious off-road stuff; apparently that is how the Prodigy red Jeep is setup.

If it works for them, and your type of driving is similar to theirs, then I would consider replicating their setup exactly (find out exactly which brand/model product they used). But I would still mentally prepare myself for the possibility that you might run into slight issues if you happen to hit a particularly big bump, pothole, railroad crossing, etc., which will force a decision between altering your driving style to avoid those situations, or consider other options of small lifts or leveling kits to decrease the chance of clearance issues.

My prediction is that 2" bump stop extensions combined with a 3/4" or 1" spring spacer in the front would be the best compromise. The 2" bump stop extension will guarantee that it will be impossible for the driveshaft and exhaust to collide. The small amount of lift in the front will minimise how much stock suspension travel you "give up", and allow some decent amount of travel before the jounce bumpers contact the bump stops. When the jounce bumpers hit, it will have an effect like suddenly having a stiffer spring (not sure how much stiffer though), which could make for an uncomfortable stiff ride if the jounce bumpers are routinely hitting during normal daily driving on typical bumps on the road. A 1" lift in the front would have a bare minimum impact on appearance and handling. You may even think the Jeep looks better, since the vehicle will be more level instead of leaning forward.


Any particular reason for the 180*F T-Stat? I didn't even know that was an option. I still have the stock t-stat and have not noticed any cooling system issues.

[doc5339]

[QUOTE=Any particular reason for the 180*F T-Stat? I didn't even know that was an option. I still have the stock t-stat and have not noticed any cooling system issues.[/QUOTE]

The 180 degree F Thermostat is supposed to be a good way to keep engine temperature cooler according to Dan. I am guessing that they have had good results with that setup?

[NOLAjeeper]

Just got off the phone with Dan Marra of Prodigy. He said I should be able to get by with just taller bump stops if I am not doing serious off-road stuff; apparently that is how the Prodigy red Jeep is setup.

Dan offered me a good deal, so I guess it ain't over. I am seriously close to "pulling the trigger" on the Prodigy Stage II with Precision Turbo, Journal Bearings, Heat Blanket, and Mishimoto 180 F T-Stat

Pull the Trigger on Prodigy Stage 2! i was the 3rd after Jeff and Jesse to get the turbo for the 3.6 for my 2012 JKU. Prodigys' come a long way from their first tunes, and i can tell you first hand how much their tunes and calibrations have improved over the years. i dont think you can go wrong with the Ripp Charger either they have a great product as well. whichever you go you wont be disappointed, both will deliver very noticeable power. I went with Prodigy personally because i like nature of exhaust driven turbos and the power they can deliver. I dont have my jeep anymore though Sold it and bought a house. However ive got a 2015 JKU-R and yes i will be putting prodigys turbo on it Dans ready and waiting for my order

[doc5339]

Thanks for the push towards Prodigy Stage II NOLA.

My only reservation is that I do not want a body lift or any lift for that matter. If I can get by with extended bump stops, I will "pull the trigger."

Dan said it will be a week or so before he gets his pipes in, so I am using that time to have my mechanic check out the clearances for me.

[Pznivy]

Thanks for the push towards Prodigy Stage II NOLA.

My only reservation is that I do not want a body lift or any lift for that matter. If I can get by with extended bump stops, I will "pull the trigger."

Dan said it will be a week or so before he gets his pipes in, so I am using that time to have my mechanic check out the clearances for me.

You need to do a body lift to fit the turbo pipes in? Terrible. Dont screw with your suspension if you dont want to. If you dont want a lift, get a RIPP or Mag supercharger. having to do a lift adds to the cost of the SC and will subtract power as your truck will be higher than it needs to be.

I always think about my next rig being a stock Rubi with just a power mod. No lift. Nothing else. Just a fast stock rubi.

[UselessPickles]

You need to do a body lift to fit the turbo pipes in?

No body lift required. Quite specifically, the downpipe interferes with the final 1.75" of stock suspension up-travel in the front. 1.75" away from completely bottoming out the front suspension, the front driveshaft will contact the downpipe. This is why they recommend a minimum 2" lift. More specifically, it is the 2" bump stop extensions that absolutely guarantee no contact. Prodigy claims that a 3/4" spacer lift in the front is enough to avoid issues for street driving (that's what they have on their test vehicle).

having to do a lift adds to the cost of the SC and will subtract power as your truck will be higher than it needs to be.

1) So be sure to include the cost of a lift (if you don't already have a lift) in the total cost of the turbo install for comparison to the cost of other superchargers. It's not a reason to automatically rule out the turbo as an option. A basic 2" spacer lift is perfect, and is relatively inexpensive (very quick google search finds kits in the $140-$285 range). If you only drive on the street, then the Daystar 3/4" lift may work for you, and that's only $40.

2) A lift does not "subtract power". Yes, it does alter aerodynamics such that a little more power be required to overcome aerodynamic drag at any given speed. But we are talking about a small lift that has minimal impact on aerodynamics. And we're talking about a minimal amount of power lost to that minimal change in aerodynamics. And we're talking about a turbo kit that can make over 400 whp compared the most powerful supercharger kit making 320 whp. This is not a valid concern.

[doc5339]

Is it true that the RIPP's Vortech V3 supercharger requires a rebuild between 50k-80k miles? A guy on another forum posted that, and got me on the fence again.

[doc5339]

No body lift required. Quite specifically, the downpipe interferes with the final 1.75" of stock suspension up-travel in the front. 1.75" away from completely bottoming out the front suspension, the front driveshaft will contact the downpipe. This is why they recommend a minimum 2" lift. More specifically, it is the 2" bump stop extensions that absolutely guarantee no contact. Prodigy claims that a 3/4" spacer lift in the front is enough to avoid issues for street driving (that's what they have on their test vehicle).



1) So be sure to include the cost of a lift (if you don't already have a lift) in the total cost of the turbo install for comparison to the cost of other superchargers. It's not a reason to automatically rule out the turbo as an option. A basic 2" spacer lift is perfect, and is relatively inexpensive (very quick google search finds kits in the $140-$285 range). If you only drive on the street, then the Daystar 3/4" lift may work for you, and that's only $40.

2) A lift does not "subtract power". Yes, it does alter aerodynamics such that a little more power be required to overcome aerodynamic drag at any given speed. But we are talking about a small lift that has minimal impact on aerodynamics. And we're talking about a minimal amount of power lost to that minimal change in aerodynamics. And we're talking about a turbo kit that can make over 400 whp compared the most powerful supercharger kit making 320 whp. This is not a valid concern.

I was soooooooooo close to getting the Stage II from Prodigy! That damn spacer-lift requirement is the only thing that stopped me. Many probably think that I am crazy or stupid, or both. While I am fine making the JKUR faster, I am not OK messing with the stock ride height/center-of-mass. I am not concerned about the increased drag slowing the Jeep down, rather about maintaining some attempt at safe handling.

My primary issue is that any lift will add to poorer handling characteristics and higher potential for roll-over. I understand that the stock JKUR is not awesome in those areas; rather than say screw it, I focus on not messing with the ride height/suspension/steering geometry.

The only other major mods that I am doing are:
-The Rock Hard 4x4 Sport Cage in the hope that it will increase survivability of occupants in the event of roll-ver and to some degree collision.
-Line-X of the interior to make it easier to clean.

[UselessPickles]

Do you ever use 4WD? If not, you could remove the front driveshaft and install the turbo kit with no lift

[doc5339]

Believe it or not, I do actually use 4WD, hi, lo, even the lockers. I only use them about twice a year.