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View Poll Results: BEST OVERALL SUPERCHARGER FOR 3.6 PENTASTAR

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  • EDELBROCK E-FORCE

    1 10.00%
  • RIPP

    2 20.00%
  • SPRINTEX

    4 40.00%
  • MAGNUSSON

    3 30.00%
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  1. #1
    Quote Originally Posted by Pznivy View Post
    You need to do a body lift to fit the turbo pipes in?
    No body lift required. Quite specifically, the downpipe interferes with the final 1.75" of stock suspension up-travel in the front. 1.75" away from completely bottoming out the front suspension, the front driveshaft will contact the downpipe. This is why they recommend a minimum 2" lift. More specifically, it is the 2" bump stop extensions that absolutely guarantee no contact. Prodigy claims that a 3/4" spacer lift in the front is enough to avoid issues for street driving (that's what they have on their test vehicle).

    Quote Originally Posted by Pznivy View Post
    having to do a lift adds to the cost of the SC and will subtract power as your truck will be higher than it needs to be.
    1) So be sure to include the cost of a lift (if you don't already have a lift) in the total cost of the turbo install for comparison to the cost of other superchargers. It's not a reason to automatically rule out the turbo as an option. A basic 2" spacer lift is perfect, and is relatively inexpensive (very quick google search finds kits in the $140-$285 range). If you only drive on the street, then the Daystar 3/4" lift may work for you, and that's only $40.

    2) A lift does not "subtract power". Yes, it does alter aerodynamics such that a little more power be required to overcome aerodynamic drag at any given speed. But we are talking about a small lift that has minimal impact on aerodynamics. And we're talking about a minimal amount of power lost to that minimal change in aerodynamics. And we're talking about a turbo kit that can make over 400 whp compared the most powerful supercharger kit making 320 whp. This is not a valid concern.

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by UselessPickles View Post
    No body lift required. Quite specifically, the downpipe interferes with the final 1.75" of stock suspension up-travel in the front. 1.75" away from completely bottoming out the front suspension, the front driveshaft will contact the downpipe. This is why they recommend a minimum 2" lift. More specifically, it is the 2" bump stop extensions that absolutely guarantee no contact. Prodigy claims that a 3/4" spacer lift in the front is enough to avoid issues for street driving (that's what they have on their test vehicle).



    1) So be sure to include the cost of a lift (if you don't already have a lift) in the total cost of the turbo install for comparison to the cost of other superchargers. It's not a reason to automatically rule out the turbo as an option. A basic 2" spacer lift is perfect, and is relatively inexpensive (very quick google search finds kits in the $140-$285 range). If you only drive on the street, then the Daystar 3/4" lift may work for you, and that's only $40.

    2) A lift does not "subtract power". Yes, it does alter aerodynamics such that a little more power be required to overcome aerodynamic drag at any given speed. But we are talking about a small lift that has minimal impact on aerodynamics. And we're talking about a minimal amount of power lost to that minimal change in aerodynamics. And we're talking about a turbo kit that can make over 400 whp compared the most powerful supercharger kit making 320 whp. This is not a valid concern.
    I was soooooooooo close to getting the Stage II from Prodigy! That damn spacer-lift requirement is the only thing that stopped me. Many probably think that I am crazy or stupid, or both. While I am fine making the JKUR faster, I am not OK messing with the stock ride height/center-of-mass. I am not concerned about the increased drag slowing the Jeep down, rather about maintaining some attempt at safe handling.

    My primary issue is that any lift will add to poorer handling characteristics and higher potential for roll-over. I understand that the stock JKUR is not awesome in those areas; rather than say screw it, I focus on not messing with the ride height/suspension/steering geometry.

    The only other major mods that I am doing are:
    -The Rock Hard 4x4 Sport Cage in the hope that it will increase survivability of occupants in the event of roll-ver and to some degree collision.
    -Line-X of the interior to make it easier to clean.

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